It’s time for a Christmas Eve bonus, Sicilian style! After we mentioned the historic, ancient vines that Mario Paoluzi and Salvo Foti helped rejuvenate in this morning’s offer, we thought it only fair to give you a crack at the wine those ancient plants produce! Named “Aetneus,” this 2017 release doesn’t merely confirm the excellence of Etnean wine but demonstrates that they can age, too, and when you taste it there’s no denying its resemblance to top-tier red Burgundy. It’s a delicious tangle of plush red fruit and soaring florals, underpinned by an unmistakably “volcanic” smokiness. I’d walk over hot lava for a bottle of this—everything from provenance to profundity to price is 100% spot-on!
Paoluzi named his label “I Custodi” (founded in 2007) in honor of the “guardians” of ancient viticulture he has partnered up with. He produces five Etnean wines from four different vineyards, or “contrada”, all of which are farmed by members of the “I Vigneri” growers’ association. “Aetneus” hails specifically from a contrada called Moganazzi, in the village of Castiglione di Sicilia. This farm is situated on the highly desirable “north slope” of Mount Etna, with a north-facing aspect and elevations that reach past 700 meters. Soils are, obviously, volcanic—a black, sandy pumice—and the vines, never touched by phylloxera, are very old and trained in the alberello (“little bush”) method.
Fruit for “Aetneus,” which contains 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% is a field blend of Nerello Cappuccio, Alicante, and other local varieties, comes from 90 to 150 year-old vines in Contrada Moganazzi. Some whole grape clusters are left intact (about 20%) for fermentation, which is carried out in stainless steel vats. Maceration on skins lasts about 12 days. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in 500-liter tonneau barrels, where the wine remains for 24 months of aging. It then rests in bottle for another 24 months before it is released.
The amount of time this 2017 spent in barrel and bottle before release is significant, and explains its seamless texture and complex aromatic profile. Shining a bright garnet-red in the glass, it has a very “Burgundian” personality, with perfumed aromas of black cherry, raspberry, blood orange, rose hips, black tea, smoke, and underbrush. It is medium-bodied, leaning toward medium-plus, with a sappy core of fruit framed by vibrant acidity and sandy tannins. It’s beautiful to drink now but there’s still more evolution ahead of it, so, as I so often say, take six bottles and revisit the wine here and there over the next 3-5 years (or more). Decant it 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60 degrees and pair it with eggplant parm or a Sicilian-style braciole (see awesome recipe attached). Enjoy!