We have a momentous white Burgundy for you today. It isn’t merely delicious: It’s important. It hails from the spectacular “Sur la Roche” vineyard which has a long history of producing exceptional wines—yet, because it’s in the Mâcon, its acclaim has never spread beyond the ranks of Burgundy insiders. In 2020, however, the narrative about Pouilly-Fuissé and the broader Mâconnais changed.

After a decade-long “application” process, France’s National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) elevated a handful of vineyards in Pouilly-Fuissé to coveted Premier Cru status. This is a first for the Mâconnais, and the first time since 1943 that a reclassification of this type was approved. Now, when it comes to Domaine Barraud specifically, I have long believed—and have said so emphatically in previous offers—that the wines are on par with the top whites of the Côte de Beaune and should be judged accordingly. Now we have a true “apples to apples” comparison, and when you factor in price, I’d have to dub this Premier Cru a “win” for Barraud and the Mâcon. This is elite white Burgundy by any measure!

Four villages in the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC are home to the newly minted Premier Crus: Fuissé (of course); Chaintré; Solutré-Pouilly; and Vergisson. Domaine Barraud is based in Vergisson, with about 27 acres of vineyards there and elsewhere in the heart of the Mâcon, including Fuissé. Nestled in Pouilly-Fuissé’s northern reaches, the town of Vergisson proudly bears a sculpted main attraction you may not expect: Like Gibraltar’s monolithic limestone peak, Roche de Vergisson looms over this idyllic village. “Sur la Roche” is a vineyard right beneath it, where Daniel Barraud and his son, Julien, farm their parcel according to a strict organic regimen. The site sits at about 350 meters of elevation in soils of white, chalky limestone—about as ideal as conditions get for structured, mineral-rich Burgundy Chardonnay.

Average vine age in Barraud’s parcel of Sur la Roche is 40 years. The wine is fermented and aged in barrels (20% new) and is racked to tank after 12 months for a few months of settling before bottling. Experts have weighed in on the 2020 vintage, declaring it an especially good one for white wines, so all the stars seem to have aligned for Barraud on this one: In the glass, it’s a deep yellow-gold extending to the rim, with rich, ripe aromas of yellow apple, white peach, honeysuckle, fresh cream, baking spices, crushed stones, white flowers, and raw hazelnut. These sensations carry through to the palate, which is full-bodied, creamy, and yet balanced by citrusy freshness and mineral nerve on the finish. 

It is deliciously drinkable now, needing only about 30 minutes in a decanter to practically explode from the glass, and while I doubt my stash will last very long because of this, I can see it continuing to offer peak drinking over the next five years. Long story short: It’s a powerful and impressive white that is custom-built for a roast chicken stuffed with garlic and lemon. Serve it in larger Burgundy stems and allow it to come up to about 50 degrees for best results.