Nestled in the Loire Valley’s Pays Nantais, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine is about as underrated a region as it gets. This is the ancestral home of Melon de Bourgogne, a bone-dry, light-bodied white grape that’s guaranteed to steal your heart faster than you can finish the bottle. Jo Landron and his iconic mustache are leading the charge when it comes to terroir-driven Muscadet. That phrase might have seemed oxymoronic a decade ago, when Melon de Bourgogne was disparaged for being bland, but Landron’s unwavering passion has proven just how much personality can be packed into these wines. The vines at Domaines Landron have been organically farmed since 1999 and biodynamically certified since 2011, inspiring a cult following among the Loire cognoscenti. The resulting wines prove that structure in Muscadet does not have to be hard to come by. “La Louvetrie” is tart, deeply mineral, and outrageously tasty. Think Pfalz Riesling with a twist of sea salt! Notes of key lime pie, toasted hazelnut and iodine glitter on a backdrop of tongue-tingling acidity—the perfect bottle for someone looking for a refreshing alternative to oaky/fruity whites. Penetrating sea-shell minerality makes your mouth water long after the last drop has disappeared, and Landron’s iconic little fox gazes up from the label as if to say, “I told you so!”