In decades past, Bandol represented the Provençal equivalent of the greatest Barolo or Left Bank Bordeaux; it was the epitome of dark, deeply complex red wine that demanded many patient years in barrel and bottle before revealing its true glory. There was no “drink now” Bandol or “modern” Bandol—there was only Bandol, the singularly brooding expression of Provence’s most unforgiving terroir. 

Today’s 1998 library release from Château Vannières, which was first built in 1547, perfectly fits the bill “decades past.” This is the epitome of authentic, old-school Bandol Rouge: low yields, long vinification, 35-day punch-down regimen, and nearly two years of maturation in large foudres and barrels. After it was bottled, it spent over three decades resting in their dark, cool, ancient cellars. 

This specific parcel was hand-selected by Vannières’ owners, the Boisseaux family, in February of 2021. After quality-checking each bottle, the winners were topped off with the same wine, re-corked, and laid back to rest until shipping out in 2022. So, there should be no need to pull out your ah-so or Durand and extract the cork with surgical precision—it should pop out with ease. Here’s a tasting note from their boutique importer, who recently tasted the wine: 

“A rather dense color with amber rim variations. The nose is marked by notes of quince, figs, licorice, pepper, mint, with hints of leather and cigar box. The palate is supple and aromatic. Texture is silky and very balanced, with a very refined frame. The tannins are still present but already well integrated. A very elegant vintage with another 10 years minimum of aging potential.”