As a special bonus, we’ve got an absolutely minuscule amount of Anthony’s soulful “Cuvée Julia” from the prized Morgon lieu-dit of “Côte du Py.” This is perhaps the most singular of the Thévenet lineup, made all the more special by the fact that 2020 is the final “old-vine” vintage we’ll ever see: The gnarled, 80-year-old trunks in this parcel have since been ripped out and replanted.

While it’s made in the same semi-carbonic fashion as Anthony’s straight Morgon, it sees maturation in old 600-liter barrels, and is a step up in every respect—deeper, lusher, darker…a wine unabashedly built for the long haul. The fruit here leans more into black raspberry and black cherry, the spices warmer and more mouth-coating. Still, it sings with Cru Beaujolais’ signature freshness. It is, in short, one of the best Gamays on the planet, a treasure that will be entering its glorious peak in three years’ time.