Be it a savage red from Arianna Occhipinti or the deep, amber-hued whites of her uncle Giusto at COS, the unique terroir of Sicily’s Vittoria region has enraptured an entire generation of wine enthusiasts. And then, without a moment’s notice, Agricola Horus slipped onto the scene and disrupted the established order with their Certified Organic, magnificently thirst-quenching reds. Is it possible that the greatest pound-for-pound Frappato is no longer made by the hands of Occhipinti or COS?
I would’ve immediately dismissed the question three years ago. However, consecutive mind-bending releases from Horus have demanded due diligence, and the final analysis of today’s 2019 “Sole e Terra” is in: this is everything I want from Frappato and far more than I expect from any $29 bottle. Plump cherries and alpine strawberries soar out of the glass, propelled by impossibly elegant violets, high-toned white pepper, and smashed herbs on stone. Perhaps more importantly, this indescribably juicy and revitalizing red will prove to be an indispensable master key on any dinner table. It will stand up to Southern Italy’s piquant and umami-rich dishes while also perfectly complementing any homemade pie from all you self-proclaimed pizzaioli out there. Bottom line: This is an exceptional Sicilian red with its eye fixated on Frappato’s throne, so please grab your share before the rest of the world bows down—and prices inevitably go UP!
Grown almost exclusively in southeastern Sicily, in the sandy clay soils around the magnificent hill town of Ragusa, Frappato is the traditional blending partner with Nero d’Avola in the wines of the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG. But in addition to being the treble to Nero d’Avola’s bass, Frappato does wonderfully on its own—to the point of taking a major star turn on its own in recent years. Like the best reds of nearby Mount Etna, 100% Frappato wines are more about brightness, freshness, and perfume than weight. The big-time Sicilian reds of a generation ago had a heavily extracted, ‘international’ sheen to them, and often incorporated international grapes to achieve that; this wine, contrarily, is crafted only from Frappato and performs like a Mediterranean answer to Cru Beaujolais.
Agricola Horus is headquartered in the town of Acate, in Sicily’s Ragusa province—which, incidentally, is also the home of the Valle dell’Acate winery, source of my very first taste of Frappato many years ago. And it just so happens that the man who crafted today’s wine is the same one in the cellar at Valle dell’Acate so many years ago. In fact, he was among the very first to showcase it as a varietal wine, way back in 1991. Giuseppe Romano does not pose for splashy pieces in the New York Times and he isn’t active on Instagram, but he is one of the most experienced, gifted talents when it comes to Vittorian varieties Nero d’Avola and Frappato. So much so that he has earned the nickname “Mister Frappato” in Vittoria. At Horus, Romano has teamed up with owner/farmer Rosario Giudice to create a no-expense-spared winemaker’s “dream scenario” in Acate.
The farm itself is a Certified Organic Mediterranean paradise that cultivates grapes, almonds, and olives. Natural fertilizers are used to enrich the soil, rose bushes line each row of vines, and pest-fighting organisms are deployed throughout to protect the crop and promote biodiversity. As is typical with ‘varietal’ Frappato, they craft this gorgeous red in the most straightforward manner possible: stainless steel fermentation with wild yeasts, and no exposure to oak barrels in order to maximize the visceral red and black fruits and seductive floral perfume. Serve in Burgundy stems at cellar temperature alongside your favorite rustic dishes from coastal Italy. Spaghetti alla Puttanesca, whole roasted Branzino, or practically any grilled sausage or bone-in protein preparation—you can’t miss with this stellar red!
