Around here, Remoissenet is the contemporary king of limited-production, devastatingly opulent white Burgundy, and that experience is further intensified when there’s a fleeting chance to acquire one of them in magnum. Everything they release emits a strong feeling of grandeur, thanks to equal measurements of expert craftsmanship and vineyard sourcing. At this stage, they’ve become veritable champions of mining—with elite vineyards serving as the gold—and today’s marvelous 2017 Puligny-Montrachet is an indisputable reminder.
Not only is this from an impressively charming vintage, but it’s also entirely sourced from a single, hand-harvested parcel wedged between Premier Crus “Charmes” and “Referts.” Tack on meticulous aging in high-quality French barrels and today’s large-format masterpiece becomes a cellar-worthy Chardonnay of infinite intrigue, depth, and luxury. It’s always worth reiterating that Remoissenet’s gems are now in full demand, with many being strictly parceled out before stepping foot in America. As such, their prices are constantly on the rise (take a gander at the 2019s if you need proof), so one should revel in this rare opportunity to secure a back-vintage, top-vintage magnum for $199. Apologies, but no more than three magnums per person until our limited wares hit zero.
Since we launched SommSelect, we’ve watched with a mixture of delight and awe as this historic négociant firm has transformed itself into one of Burgundy’s most nimble, thoughtful, and wide-ranging explorers of the region’s many terroirs. They’ve done this by homing in on the greatest vineyards in the region, often purchasing parcels to complement what they get from contract growers, but in either instance, a focus on the very best raw material is paramount.
Given how many Remoissenet Burgundies we’ve offered, both young and old, the story of this iconic brand is probably well-known by now: The firm, whose catacomb-like cellars in the town of Beaune hold an incredible library of back-vintage bottles, was acquired—and subsequently supercharged—by a new ownership group in 2005. A dream team of Burgundy talent was assembled to bring the once-moribund brand back to prominence: Cellar Master Bernard Répolt; GM Pierre Rovani; and Winemaker Claudie Jobard.
Today’s magnum of 2017 Puligny-Montrachet hails from the village-level lieu-dit of “Les Charmes” in the appellation’s northernmost reaches. Wedged between Puligny’s Premier Cru “Les Referts” and Chassagne’s Premier Cru “Les Charmes,” it is, unmistakably, premium raw material. The manually harvested fruit was pressed full cluster into a mixture of 228- and 342-liter barrels (30% new) where it underwent a spontaneous fermentation. The resulting wine then aged in these barrels until bottling and further rest in their cellars.
The 2017 vintage in Burgundy was generous in both quality and quantity, and, as has been typical of new-release wines from Remoissenet, this Puligny has an aristocratic gloss to it. There’s no doubt you’re in the presence of something serious when you put your nose in the glass, and considering the source material and the level at which this wine performs, I’d characterize the price as a Burgundian steal. With a 30-minute decant, lush aromas of pineapple, ripe yellow apple, and apricot fill roar out, followed by lees, honeysuckle, crushed stone, struck flint, preserved lemon, toasted hazelnut, and layers upon layers of exotic spice. The palate is full and creamy, boasting expansive textures of opulent orchard fruit and a thrumming core of minerals. At five years old, it has entered a sweet drinking window that will remain wide open for the next 5-7 years before evolving into a savory mushroom- and sous bois-laced masterwork. Cheers!
