Despite achieving Chablis Premier Cru status in the late 1970s, the “Vau de Vey” vineyard—situated in a slender, snaking valley—was given mention as far back as 1537, due to constant flooding by a neighboring stream. The name has been traced to a Latin word vadum, meaning a shallow crossing or ford, but the most distinguishing characteristic of Vau de Vey is its steepness. Along with its staggering 52% slope, the site benefits from a southeast exposure, which provides ample ripening in a valley that can produce colder temperatures than most surrounding areas. All this is a natural formula for a wine that showcases power and substance, and if you didn’t know Vau de Vey before, you won’t forget it after trying this layered expression from up-and-coming Chablis sensation Domaine de l’Enclos.

Romain and Damien Bouchard grew up in Chablis working alongside their father, Pascal, and the heart of their operation is a significant stand of prime Chablis vineyards that has been in their family for generations. They may have only launched Domaine de l’Enclos in 2016, but this is no rookie operation—it’s a pair of seasoned vintners working with mature, organically farmed vines. Their first few years of operation have, in fact, been focused largely on organic viticulture, with official certification awarded in 2018.

The topsoil in Vau de Vey is practically nonexistent, exposing the rocky, limestone-rich terroir that we have come to admire as “Kimmeridgian”—chock full of fossilized marine life. The wine, aged 12 months in stainless steel with no lees-stirring, pours a deep straw yellow in the glass with highlighted reflections of bright green. The nose is highly perfumed, hinting at a young, steely Puligny-Montrachet. Aromas of yellow apple blossom, toasty hazelnut, oyster shell, white peach, yellow flowers, crushed rock, and chamomile carry over to a generous palate, as is to be expected in the ’19 vintage. As it warms up, you’ll find notes of lemon curd, green apple, yellow peach pith, lime leaves, and beeswax. Immense minerality underpins the deepness of this wine and, if I were blind-tasting it, I would expect to spend much more. It should develop gracefully over the next 5-8 years for sure. I recommend decanting for 30 minutes and drinking at cellar temperature in large Burgundy stems. Pair with cheeses like Gruyère and Beaufort while you cook up a wonderful Dover sole dish with a buttery sauce enhanced with lemon. It’s simple and delicious: easy to make, quite hard to beat. Enjoy!