Even in a realm as vast, nuanced, and multifaceted as sparkling wine, the overwhelming majority of them still share a common thread. But that is emphatically not the case for Aphros’ 2009 “Yakkos.” This micro-production Grande Reserva may as well be cut from a different cloth, by a bespoke tailor, on another planet. In other words: If you enjoy high-dollar Champagne, this is not for you; if you’re looking for “crushable” pét-nats or crémants, this is not for you; and if you’re looking for something in between the two, well, this isn’t for you either. Seemingly designed for thrill-seekers and try-anything-oncers, today’s delicious rara avis is an equally haunting and enthralling Champagne-method red sparkler from one of the world’s greatest biodynamic minds.
The grape is Vinhão, an obscure, indigenous red variety in Vinho Verde that delivers the antithesis of what you’ve come to expect from a region filled with light, spritzy whites. Vinhão produces brooding, aubergine-colored wines bursting with intense acid, savor, and ferocity. Although typically bottled young, still, and for local consumption, Aphros turned everything on its head by morphing it into a full-blown sparkling wine and maturing it for a whopping 132 months on lees before disgorging a meager 2800 bottles. How it’s only $32 is beyond me. I’m not saying you need to buy a full case here, but it’d be an absolute shame to pass up this singular experience.
When I revisited Portugal back in 2018, a close friend of mine simply said, “make sure you go to Aphros—just trust me.” It ended up being the highlight of my trip, and there will forever be one scene that remains firmly planted in my memory. As we wound up one of many verdant valleys deep in the heart of Vinho Verde, a centuries-old, churchlike quinta emerged and we pumped the brakes to absorb the view. Little did we know that that very building was our destination! Turns out, it was one of several historic structures owner Vasco Croft was utilizing to produce his trendsetting biodynamic wines. He truly is a leader in the Portuguese ‘natural’ movement, which was made vividly clear as we toured wildly lush vineyards with grazing animals, a room dedicated to biodynamic treatments, and a dark “medieval” cellar with only a few watts of electricity. In short, Vasco crafts natural, old-school wine like in the days before industry.
Now let’s highlight the grape of choice in today’s “Yakkos” Grande Reserva: Vinhão. Sparsely planted and largely crafted for friends and family, this is a local grape that Vice Media calls the “blood-colored bastard of Vinho Verde.” I’m sure most of you think of Vinho Verde wines as WHITE, spritzy, somewhat neutral quaffers, but Aphros completely flips the script with “Yakkos”: This is a Champagne-method sparkler that looks like the deepest red wine in existence and tastes like an explosion of purple-black fruits with intense earthy savor.
After hand harvesting his biodynamic crop in 2009, the Vinhão spontaneously fermented in granite lagares and macerated in stainless steel (with punch-downs by foot) until Vasco felt the tannic presence was perfect. Following, the wine was transferred into bottle without fining or filtering where it underwent its second fermentation and aged sur lie for 10 years. It was disgorged in 2020 and corked after a tiny addition of sulfur.
Looking like something you’d see during Witching Hour, Aphros’ 2009 “Yakkos” reveals an opaque purple-black in the glass and effuses a frothy mousse that quickly settles down. With a few swirls, brooding and deeply aromatic aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, blue plum, concord grapes, black licorice, crushed granite, dusty herbs, varnish, candied violet, and damp earth waft out with grace. Again, this is unlike any sparkling wine you’ve ever had. The palate is medium-bodied yet filling, releasing lush dark berries and heaps of crushed minerals that are enhanced by mouthwatering acidity and soft, granular tannins. It finishes bone dry with dried plum, cacao, and a slight herbal echo. It’s a fascinating and wholly unique creation. Pour into all-purpose stems around 45-50 degrees and enjoy over the next few years. Cheers!
