From the Wine Shop
Antonio Montero, “Colleita” Ribeiro Blanco Galicia, Spain 2018 (750mL)
The Monteros’ significant vineyard holdings are mostly of the revered native white varieties Treixadura and Loureiro, as well as Torrontes, Albariño, and Palomino. All their vineyards, ranging from 20-70 years old, are planted in soils comprised largely of decomposed granite (locally called sabrego) co-located with clay and sand. Like most sites in Ribeiro, their dozens of parcels hug steep slopes running up from Ribeiro’s matrix of riverbanks to altitudes reaching over 1,000 feet. By no means the kind of sunbaked landscape found in central Spain, Ribeiro is cool, often rainy, sitting 30 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, pushing a consistent breezeway effect crisscrossing the various tributaries of the entire Miño River Valley.
Pulling from 30 different organically farmed parcels on various slopes and terraces, the grapes are entirely hand-harvested. Although the blend is 60% Palomino, the 40% Treixadura is the alpha component. Elegant and complex, Treixadura generates deeply nuanced wines and like other noble varieties, it beautifully transfers the expression of the environment in which it’s grown. How can an entry-level wine possess and deliver such a triple-threat performance? Subtle but dazzling fruit flavor, umami spice, and a precise, almost surgically placed floral note? We had to double-check the cost because it simply didn’t make sense, but what a thrill it was to learn that wines like this are still out there! In the glass, it’s clear and bright, displaying a straw-yellow hue with greenish highlights running to the rim on a supple medium-sized body. Notes of apple blossom, plantain, gooseberry, and garden herbs leap from the glass. The palate offers polish and smooth texture with lively flavors of fresh pear, apricots with a haunting whisper of umami with a spot-on framework of bright acidity. There is a rich tonality here generally associated with a pricepoint tiers above this one.
- SoilGranite w/ Clay & Sand
- BlendPalomino 60%, Treixadura 40%
- Temp.Serve at 50-55° F
- GlasswareAll-Purpose Stem
- PairingPatatas Bravas
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Through the grapevine
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