It’s hard to believe, but checking the calendar confirmed that it has indeed been six months since receiving our first-ever mixed trove of Grand Cru Champagne from Benoît Lahaye. Among the world’s most respected biodynamic superstars, his elusive cult bottlings are in exceptionally high demand and painfully low supply, so we wanted to make sure the initial offering dazzled. A tactical decision was made to debut his mind-expanding, electrically charged Brut Nature first, as we believed it was the only proper introduction into this hypnotizing rabbit hole. As expected, our inventory rapidly “zeroed out” and we received countless requests for more. Naturally, we jumped on the horn and went to work trying to corral something, anything else—and eventually emerged victorious.
It should be noted that today’s Grand Cru Brut Nature isn’t a re-stock nor is it lingering inventory, but the newest, freshest release directly from Lahaye’s cellar! Culled from his biodynamically farmed vines in Grand Crus Bouzy and Ambonnay, this Pinot Noir-dominant wine is a tremendously genuine expression of natural Champagne. It’s really quite simple: if you’re a true admirer of world-renowned Champagne’s unique terroir, purity, and identity, today’s just-released Brut Nature is an absolute essential. I can assure you this deeply special Grand Cru bottling won’t be around for long. Up to six per person.
Immortalized, as defined by Lexico, means to “confer enduring fame upon,” and by that interpretation, Lahaye deserves to be immortalized in Champagne’s history books, as he is leading the surging wave of natural farming/winemaking. This is a man who has spent his entire adult life committed to his 4.8 hectares, four of which are located in the Grand Cru locales of Bouzy (home base) and Ambonnay. Benoît joined his family estate in 1993 and immediately began walking the road towards natural farming. Today, after being fully organic for the past 17 years and fully biodynamic for 10, Lahaye’s champagnes are the epitome of terroir-authentic wines.
The overwhelming majority of Lahaye’s 4.8 hectares are planted to Pinot Noir, and today’s Brut Nature reflects that with an 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay blend. The Pinot is culled from his vines in Bouzy and the Chardonnay from next-door Ambonnay. One could make a compelling argument—and would have little-to-no dissenters—that both are the top two Grand Crus in Montagne de Reims.
Through the growing season, all work is painstakingly carried out by hand. Herb infusions and organic manures are applied to combat the wrath of nature and his stout Auxois horse, Tamise, can be found plowing every row of vines. In the winery, each parcel naturally ferments in old French oak barrels and malolactic is never forced. If it happens, it happens. Today’s Brut Nature is a blend of the ‘17, ‘16, and ‘15 vintages that matured in bottle, on its fine lees, for roughly 30 months before disgorgement and a zero-gram dosage in the Spring of 2020.
If you read the previous Lahaye writeup, you know that I have a love-hate relationship with Brut Nature Champagnes. They can be austere, even abrasive at times, and I’ve found many tend to lack the depth and overall pleasure of those that do have a judicious dosage (my sweet spot is 2-5 grams). That said, Benoît Lahaye throttles the competition and buries the notion that Brut Natures are angular and lack depth. This is an insanely profound wine that showcases the subtle power and immense grace of Grand Cru Bouzy Pinot Noir. There are no laser beams to be found in this bottle, no mouth-puckering acidity—it’s all about harmony, balance, and beautiful texture. But, there is a process to enjoying it: Lahaye’s wines gain further complexity and generosity as it oxygen is introduced, so serve this in large Burgundy stems around 55 degrees, allow it some time in the glass, and don’t be afraid to give it a few vigorous, Olympian-strength swirls.
Today’s newest Grand Cru Brut Nature disgorgement pours a deep, almost copper hue in the glass, highlighting the presence of Pinot Noir. Compared to the previous bottling, it’s softer, more rounded, and chock-full of nuanced forest fruit and finely crushed minerals. After allowing it a few minutes to open, this unfurls like a blooming Spring flower and embraces your senses with notes of crisp red apple, Rainier cherry skin, wild strawberry, red plum, redcurrant, rose petal, saffron, crushed stones, and a hint of underbrush. The palate is buoyant, refreshing, and swirling with supple energy that, honestly, might as well serve as a warm hug. Each brightly layered, red-fruited, mineral-studded sip leaves you with a long-lasting, multi-textural savoriness that speaks to the profundity of pure, biodynamic farming and a minimalist winemaking genius in the cellar. Truly, Lahaye is one of the greatest natural Champagne minds of our time and this newest release is a showpiece for the modern ages. ENJOY!
