One of the OGs of the rarefied Club Trésors de Champagne, Marc Hébrart’s red-hot 2014 is a siren call for connoisseurs because a distinctive bottle of “Spécial Club” is among the most sought-after Champagnes on earth. Here’s why: Out of several thousand grower-producers, only 28 have been privately invited and appointed to this exclusive circle. Even still, one must endure a ruthless vetting process and a series of fortunate events must occur should you want to display “Spécial Club” on your label.
First, it must be a Vintage Champagne from a year deemed worthy by the committee, and then the wine must pass two blind tastings by a nonpartisan panel of enologists and winemakers—once as a base wine and three years later, as a fully sparkling wine. Then, and only then, can you use today’s 18th-century-inspired, squat-shaped bottle, which is trademarked exclusively for the club’s use. Quite simply, the “Spécial Club” is one of the most rigorous wine organizations on earth and Marc Hébrart is among the best Grower Champagnes money can buy. So, it’s only logical that I geeked out over and savored every ounce of today’s sensational 2014. Along with the ‘15 we offered many months ago, this competes with the very best—it's next-level Champagne!
When Champagne luminary Peter Liem recently called “Marc Hébrart “one of the finest estates in the Grande Vallée,” that meant he was putting them up against megastars Billecart-Salmon, Philipponnat, Dom Pérignon, Georges Laval, Bollinger—essentially, names that grace every Michelin-star wine list. Not only do I agree with Peter Liem, I’m also prepared to go a step further by placing Marc Hébrart among the finest estates in all of Champagne. Over the last decade, they’ve been downright fascinating to watch as they’ve released multiple bottles that hold a spot in my all-time favorites list.
Hébrart’s Spécial Club 2014 is a 60/40 Pinot Noir-Chardonnay blend that only comes from mature, sustainably farmed, estate-owned parcels in the Premier Cru of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and the Grand Crus of Aÿ, Oiry, and Chouilly. Don’t mistake Mareuil-sur-Aÿ as the “underperformer” here—this 1er Cru village ranks at the top of the 40-something that exist and Hébrart’s best parcels lie right above Philipponnat’s famed Clos des Goisses. Many have likened it to an under-the-radar Grand Cru, a notion I am fully on board with.
After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were blended together and transferred into bottles, where it then aged in Hébrart’s cellar for over three years. This batch was disgorged in April of 2019 and was allowed further rest until the beginning of 2020.
If you want the full effect of a Spécial Club, rummage around your stemware collection and pull out a flared tulip, an all-purpose stem, or a larger Burgundy glass. I personally opt for the latter because as much of a bubble fiend I am, there’s something incredibly exquisite and revealing about a Champagne that has lost some carbonation, especially at a warmer temperature (~55 degrees). To me, they drink finer and more sublime, but you do run the risk of discovering flaws that the CO2 were previously concealing. This is one of the major indicators I use for determining the quality of luxury Champagne.
Today’s 2014 Spécial Club is a different beast than the 2015 we offered months back. It’s more poised and precise—less hedonism and more firm structure and subtle power. That’s not to say the 2015 is a lesser wine (it’s among my favorite Champagnes this year), but the ‘14 is a modest genius whereas its younger brother is a child star strutting the red carpet. Don’t get me wrong though: Hébrart’s signature ripe and layered style is fully at play, and it OVER-delivers: You’ll discover lush notes of green and yellow apple, baked pear, quince, Meyer lemon, pineapple, white peach skin, almonds, stirred lees, honey, oyster shell, chalk, buttered toast, and delicate spices. That said, it never once skews heavy or rich—there’s simply too much minerality, acidity, and complexity in action. This is a sophisticated and mineral-dominated wine, no doubt about it, so enjoy it with those who truly appreciate the nuances of elite Champagne. Cheers!
