One may think that sitting down with a Grand Cru Pinot Noir is among the greatest pleasures afforded to man because no other terroir can mimic the blue-chip nobility and breathtaking intricacies of Burgundy...right? The depth of fruit, perfume, minerality, and ‘Old World’ elegance surging in each profound sip of Crochet’s 2009 “Cuvée Prestige” says otherwise: Any experienced taster would blind this as top-level, multi-hundred-dollar Burgundy almost every time.
That’s why today’s perfectly preserved, 11-year-old MAGNUM from the heart of Sancerre is (1) a long-held underground secret in the sommelier community and (2) a valuable reminder that Grand Cru quality doesn’t always originate in Grand Cru vineyards. What’s more, “Cuvée Prestige” is far rarer than Burgundy’s elite gems—it’s produced a few times per decade, only a pitifully small fraction of what’s bottled goes into magnum format, and today’s 2009 can’t be found anywhere else. With wild perfumes that echo older examples of Dujac Clos de la Roche and the intense, soul-stirring structure of Le Chambertin, Crochet’s ‘09 is a towering paragon of Pinot Noir that operates shoulder-to-shoulder with the highest echelon of cult Grand Cru Burgundy. We guarantee Francophiles will be rendered speechless.
[PLEASE NOTE: Today’s offer is only available on pre-arrival and all bottles will be arriving at our warehouse in two weeks’ time. Due to being a large format, Build-a-Case is unavailable.]
Experienced diners will likely recognize Domaine Lucien Crochet’s name and simple, but iconic, label. The family’s top white Sancerre cuvée, “La Chêne Marchand,” is a staple at celebrated restaurants across the globe, and their assorted other whites are recognized by retailers as among the region’s most consistent and critically acclaimed releases, no matter the vintage. But I often get the sense that sommeliers and retail shops are doing their best to keep Domaine Crochet’s red wines out of the limelight. Today’s “Cuvée Prestige” is a wine that makes memorable cameos at private wine dinners and sommelier get-togethers, but I don’t recall ever seeing a bottle on a retail shelf. Given the ridiculously limited release schedule and still-approachable price of today’s 2009, I don’t blame anyone for trying to keep it an “insider wine.” On the other hand, SommSelect’s stated mission is to liberate scarce, “insider” wines like this so they can be enjoyed by home consumers—so let’s get down to business!
Taking a few cues from the typical soil “recipe” found two hours east in Burgundy, Domaine Crochet’s vineyards contain a mix of limestone and clay (in this case, Oxfordian caillottes and Kimmeridgian marl), plus a small dash of stones and gravel. The family’s Pinot Noir vines are predominantly south-facing, adding a welcome addition of heat and sun exposure to this typically cool growing region. Today’s Cuvée Prestige is a product of the family’s oldest vines, currently averaging about 60 years of age. Clusters are entirely de-stemmed before cold maceration and fermentation in tank for three weeks. Next, the wine is left to gently develop over 12 months in a small handful of top quality Burgundy barrels, 40% of which are new French oak, and then 10 more months in stainless steel. When élevage is complete, the wine is bottled unfined and aged for an additional two-plus years. This is a complex, time-consuming, and expensive process by any measure.
With one sip of today’s wine, my taste memory brought me directly to Burgundy’s greatest sites, but as most of you know, blind tasting Burgundy is not an easy game to play. Every time I’ve blinded “Cuvée Prestige,” regardless of vintage, I have confidently rattled of Grand Crus, specifically Clos de la Roche. Of course, you’ll never find a magnum of that from the blockbuster 2009 vintage at today’s price—not even remotely close! Right out of the bottle, Crochet’s 2009 is all about terroir-expressiveness: dried black plums, black cherry, huckleberry, and citrus rind roll out of the glass along with damp forest floor, pu’er tea, vintage leather, preserved meat (an aroma like no other!), crushed stone, and myriad baking spices. For French Pinot Noir, the palate is medium-plus, broadly layered, and impressively deep. You’ll be utterly fascinated by the interplay of savory earth and dried, ripe forest fruits that linger on a 60+ second finish, which speaks to the immense quality of the wine. I recommend serving in Burgundy stems after a brief 15-minute decant and consuming over 2-3+ hours. If you’re short-handed, feel free to reinsert the cork, stick it in the refrigerator, and enjoy the remainder the following day—I assure you it will hold up! I also urge you to purchase more than one because these wines will go the distance in the cellar (e.g. the ‘97 is in peak form right now). Enjoy!
