We never tire of tasting new vintages from old favorites, which is why Dominique Joseph’s 2017 has us more energized than ever. We’ve said it before, we’ve said it again, and here we are once more, spreading the gospel with our keyboards serving as megaphones: “Les Clos Lyzières” simply has no Cabernet Franc equal at this price. From an insider vineyard that’s a few skips to Clos Rougeard’s legendary $300-400+ “Les Poyeux,” this old-vine, game-changing Loire Valley red flaunts showstopping purity, balance, and aromatic complexity for a tenth of the price.
Known around town as “Pélo” (budding superstars always seem to earn a nickname, like “Fanfan,” a.k.a Jean-François Ganevat), Dominque is a masterful vigneron who produces magic from his organically farmed vineyards. The result, as you’ve probably guessed by now, is a stunning representation of pure Cabernet Franc. It’s one of very few (perhaps the only one at this price) that competes with Clos Rougeard’s soaring levels of perfumed aromatics, intricate minerality, and sublime purity of fruit. By eschewing oak, Pélo achieves flawlessly nuanced Cabernet Franc that stretches for miles on the palate. So, if you like Burgundian elegance and Bordelais depth, this is the perfect fusion for you. Because of its extraordinary quality, their importer jumped on the 2017 releases extra early, so you have first dibs—don’t waste the opportunity!
From the crisp, intensely mineral Muscadets in the Pays Nantais, through the Cab Francs and Chenin Blancs of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine, to the easterly appellations crafting Sauvignon Blanc, the Loire Valley is home to incredible history (reaching back to Charlemagne); a wildly diverse collections of wines; and superb values across the board. One of the appellations of note here is Saumur-Champigny—ground zero for some of the world’s most classic expressions of Cabernet Franc, thanks to the dominant presence of tuffeau in the soils. While there are other factors in play, there’s wide agreement that this soft-textured, yellowish limestone lends Saumur-Champigny reds their exceptional brightness and perfumed aromatics. On the whole, these wines tend to be archetypal expressions of intricate Cabernet Franc with emphasis on dark fruits and high-toned floral aromatics.
Fourth-generation owner and winemaker Dominique Joseph was an early convert to organic farming and has held an official certification for many years. He has run the family operation since 1990 and works out of a stunning, multi-chambered cellar carved directly from the local tuffeau. Pélo’s parcel in “Les Clos Lyzières” soaks up the sun in its southeast-facing position and today’s 2017 is a choice selection from 55-year-old Cabernet Franc vines. In the winery—only minutes away—grapes are 100% de-stemmed and undergo an extremely lengthy four-week maceration (it makes sense once you see the deep concentration and color of the wine). During this time, he keeps the wine moving via punch-downs and pump-overs in order to achieve maximum integration. Unlike his “Les Poyeux,” which rests in oak, this ages entirely in concrete vessels.
In the glass, Le Petit Saint Vincent’s 2017 “Clos Lyzières” reveals a brilliant dark ruby moving out to a star-bright magenta rim. In order to best unlock its youthful, flavor-loaded core, I recommend decanting for 30-60 minutes and enjoying in large Burgundy stems. As always, this wine is fully equipped with explosive florals and dense, brambly fruit. The nose reveals a breathtakingly beautiful mosaic that is painted with ripe currants, black raspberry, huckleberry, black plums, tobacco leaf, bell pepper, licorice, leather, violets, lavender, cracked pepper, crushed gravel, and damp underbrush. The gorgeous, silky palate reveals intense mouthwatering acidity and grippy, fine-grained tannins that create a wonderful push-pull tension between fruit and earth. No oak aging? No problem—this will effortlessly mature in your cellar over the next decade. Wine doesn’t get more classic than this and Cabernet Franc rarely gets purer, so be sure to stock up on this brand new release. Enjoy!
