It is that good, and that distinctive; this white blend from the upper reaches of France’s Savoie region, “Argile,” wowed our subscribers when we offered previous vintages, so we were excited to wave in the new release. This really is the ultimate ‘mountain’ white, sourced from some of the highest-elevation vineyards in the world located in the foothills of the French Alps. Driven by Savoie’s native Jacquère grape blended with Chardonnay, this is a white with all the structure and mineral grip of a good white Burgundy, with a more floral aromatic profile that transports you to a cool mountain meadow.

The 2018 “Argile” is a blend of 40% Jacquère, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Mondeuse Blanche fermented in a mix of stainless steel tanks (two-thirds) and used French oak barriques (one-third). It was aged in used barrels for about eight months before bottling. In the glass, it is a pale straw-gold with green and silver reflections at the rim. The aromas are a beguiling mix of yellow apple, white peach, dried acacia flowers, dried white mushrooms, lees, and a smoky, stony note reminiscent of Loire Valley silex (flint). On the palate, the wine is textured, creamy even, but at the same time resolutely mineral, fresh, and saline. There are certainly some Chablisienne characteristics here, with the Jacquère lending a floral component.