Federico Ramón spent the last seven years of his life chasing one dream: to make his Aylés estate the first Vino de Pago in Aragón. In 2010, just before he died, the Spanish government made it official. His vineyard joined the most exclusive club in Spanish wine.

Here's what Vino de Pago means: Single estate. Every grape from one contiguous property. Quality standards so strict that most of Rioja’s top producers wouldn't qualify. Government inspectors checking everything from yields to winemaking. Think Burgundy's monopole designation meeting German Prädikat precision.

The Aylés estate sits at nearly 2,000 feet elevation in Aragon in northeastern Spain, where 12th-century monks first planted vines after King Alfonso I handed them the land. The site is extremely continental in climate: daytime temperatures wilt the vines, followed by chilly nights. The saving grace is the cierzo wind screaming down from the Pyrenees, keeping a measure of freshness in the grapes.

The soils tell the rest of the story: pudding stones (ancient river rocks) mixed with calcium-rich clay. It's the kind of dirt that makes vines struggle, dig deep, and produce grapes with character. The Ramón family farms it all organically, harvests at night to preserve freshness, and makes wine with native yeasts, gentle extraction, and French oak aging.

The 2022 blend is primarily Tempranillo and Garnacha (the Spanish heart), plus a dash of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. They co-ferment the Tempranillo with the Merlot, the Garnacha with the Cabernet—a winemaking choice that leads to a seamless, fruit-driven result.

WHY YOU'LL LOVE IT

• The Classification: Of Spain's 20 Vino de Pago estates, most wines start at $50. This is the greatest value going in Spanish Grand Cru, bold, black-fruited, and incredibly satisfying for the price. It’s easy to see why Tim Atkin MW scored it 96 points and called it “A powerful, detailed and delicious red.”
  

• Traditional Rioja Drinkers, This Is Your Wine: If you love traditional, old-vine Rioja, here's your new house red. Garnacha and Tempranillo-based, traditionally made, with those savory, spicy tones that made you fall in love with Spanish wine in the first place.
  

• The 5-7 Year Sweet Spot: Unlike most $20 wines that fall apart after three years, this has the structure to improve through 2029.
  

• Certified organic farming at conventional prices. The Ramón family does it because it's right for their land and their workers, and they don’t charge a premium.

HOW TO SERVE IT

• Pop and pour, Serving at 62-65°F in Bordeaux or Rioja stems.
  

• Perfect with grilled lamb chops, jamón ibérico, or a simple tortilla española.
  

• Drink now through 2029, though at $18 a bottle, you should lay down a case and see how it develops.