We’re highlighting the Northern Rhône and its varieties the next three days, and to kick things off we have a beautiful white blend from the icons at Clusel-Roch. Laden with ripe orchard fruit and floral aromas, and boasting the mineral clarity of a mountain stream, it’ll serve equally well on its own as it will alongside an elaborately constructed special occasion meal. And its luscious texture makes it perfect for the cooler months. So why aren’t we all drinking more juice like this? Simply put, there isn’t much else to compare with “Sur Le Mont.” Few Rhône white wines sing with such freshness. Few are made from such unique raw materials, at such artisanal scale. And few are as value-laden as today’s wine. We’re constantly on the lookout for Rhône whites that really strike a chord with us, and with the exception of some spendy collectibles, they’re admittedly few and far between. Stock up on “Sur Le Mont,” because it could be a long time before a white Rhône blend this great comes back around!
At the northernmost point of the Rhône Valley sit Ampuis and Saint-Cyr, two villages surrounded by what are undeniably some of the most dramatic vineyards in the world. These towns are on most wine lovers’ maps for being home to some of the world’s most glorious Syrah, as it’s the center of the Côte-Rôtie appellation. But Syrah isn’t the only variety grown on the schistous slopes of Ampuis and surrounding villages. The Clusel family has unique parcels of Viognier and Roussanne, which should be familiar to anyone who drinks white wines from the Rhône. What’s really unexpected is that they also have vines of Clairette and Altesse. Clairette is a variety more closely associated with the southern Rhône, where its mineral streak and acid structure provide much-needed freshness to both reds and whites in Châteauneuf-Du-Pape. Altesse is the real headscratcher here; we love the variety for its blend of exotic aromas and vibrant acid, but we’ve never seen it outside of its native Savoie. Though considering the Savoie is less than 100 miles from Ampuis, it makes some sense that it could’ve traveled here. Whatever the reason for the two varieties finding their way to the Northern Rhône, we’re thankful they did. They provide perfect structural balance to the rich textures and higher alcohols of Viognier and Roussanne, and make for a truly unique wine.
Domaine Clusel-Roch was originally a mixed grape and apricot farm, and René Clusel sold his crop to the co-operative. In 1969, though, he decided to bottle Côte-Rôtie wines under his own name, and Domaine Clusel was born. René’s son Gilbert took over in 1987 and married Brigitte, amending her family’s name to the domaine. At just over 4 hectares, the estate remains tiny. This is a truly artisanal domaine, wherein farming is fully organic, all fruit is handpicked, and fermentations take place spontaneously. Gilbert and his son Guillaume have shown a special knack for varieties beyond the Syrah of their home appellation. They make a stunning lineup of wines labeled Vin de France made from unexpected varieties like Gamay, Aligote, and today’s hyper-unique blend.
Clusel-Roch’s “Sur Le Mont” is made up of roughly equal proportions of Viognier, Roussanne, Clairette, and Altesse. The varieties are picked separately, then fermented in stainless steel for around eight months. “Sur Le Mont” pours a limpid yellow with flecks of green and silver. It wafts from the glass with a mixture of white peach, apricot, pear skin, lemon zest, honeysuckle, fresh spring herbs, seaspray, and pulverized chalk. On the palate it’s firmly medium-bodied, with some real fleshy texture and deep stone fruit lushness, but that’s beautifully balanced out by a clean wick of acidity. This is a seriously complex yet easy-to-drink bottle of Rhône white. It’s incredibly versatile too, equally at home on its own while you’re cooking, or served alongside a special meal. Grab plenty and be sure to always have some on hand!
