The wines of Umbria have long been overlooked, especially when compared to their more “regal” cousins next door in Tuscany. The exception is Montefalco, where they produce deep, powerful red wines from the local Sangrantino grape. But, what even many sommeliers don’t know is that this same area was once famous for a Trebbiano variety named for its hometown, Spoleto. Today’s discovery, from the acclaimed estate of Scacciadiavoli, is made the old way–fermented and aged in clay amphora with full skin contact. It’s a bone-dry, savory, aromatic masterpiece that could be called an “orange wine,” but in truth is just a super traditional treasure. It’s a bottle with almost no comparisons in the wide world of wine–unique would be an understatement–but once you try it you’ll wish you had bought a case, unless you already did!
With lush valleys surrounded by the Apennine mountains and perfectly preserved, walled hilltop towns and castles, Umbria is the rugged and less touristed sibling of its neighbor Tuscany. Like Tuscany, and almost everywhere in Italy, wine has been made here for thousands of years, but for the most part it has not experienced international success. The village of Montefalco is the one DOCG that does receive its share of international acclaim, and that is where you will find Scacciadiavoli, located in the heart of the Montefalco zone, which itself is in the heart of Umbria and essentially the very middle of all of Italy. The rolling hills and warm, dry summers are perfect for the local Sagrantino grape, though Sangiovese is actually the most common red. About 10 miles south is Spoleto, which gives its name to the famous clone of Trebbiano that has been grown here for centuries, and is our focus for today.
When Ugo Boncompagni Udovisi, Prince of Piombino, built the Scacciadiavoli winery in 1884 it was one of the first modern wineries in central Italy. The large, fortress-like structure is built into the side of a hill with vineyards on top, allowing for the facility to be entirely gravity fed. I had the privilege of visiting the winery last fall, while on a family vacation in Umbria, and I can attest that it is an impressive feat of functional architecture, even after almost 150 years of operation. If you go, you will learn that the name that Prince Ugo gave the estate means “devil chaser,” and perhaps unsurprisingly for Italy, there’s a story of a 14th century exorcism involved. The Pambuffetti family purchased the estate in 1954, and today the 4th and 5th generations are at the helm.
Trebbiano Spoletino is a rare, thick skinned cousin of the more common Trebbiano you see throughout Italy. The variety was nearly extinct a few decades ago, but is making a comeback now. The Pambuffettis have helped rejuvenate the variety, and they use old school methods which include fermentation and aging of whole clusters in clay amphora, and nine months of lees aging in the same amphora as well as neutral oak barrels. In essence this is an “orange wine,” but it’s clean, clear, and terroir specific.
Serve Trebbiano Spoletino cool, not too cold, in all-purpose stems. The color is a mesmerizing deep straw gold with flecks of copper, and the nose is equally spellbinding with nectarines, peach skin, dried fruit, saffron, turmeric, white pepper, chamomile, lemon zest, and a touch of green tea. The palate is medium bodied and surprisingly crisp and lithe, given the weight and texture from the skin contact. A rich, creamy pasta or a simple plate of Italian cheeses is the perfect pairing!
