German wines are featured in our shop with decent regularity, but the vast majority of them are white, and when we do include a red it is almost always Spätburguner (aka Pinot Noir). So this savory, spicy, silky Blaufränkisch is definitely a departure, but a decidedly delicious one. Not surprisingly it hails from Baden, where most of Germany’s top Pinots are also found, and also unsurprisingly it is made by the iconic estate of Burg Ravensburg. With a thousand years of winemaking history, these guys know a thing or two about coaxing every ounce of terroir and complexity from their vines. Let’s get to know Blaufränkisch!
Where It Grows:
Baden is located in the southwestern corner of Germany, near the border with France’s Alsace to the west, and Switzerland to the south. As such it is warmer and drier, and therefore the most regarded region for red wines in the country. Sulzfeld, the Ravensburg hometown, is less than 10 miles from the Rhine river (the border with France) and features steep hills with pockets of deep limestone–perfect for making complex, elegant wines. Blaufränkisch, a famously thick-skinned variety, arrived here from Austria about 150 years ago.
Who Made It:
The year ‘1251’ is prominently displayed on each and every Burg Ravensburg label, and
why shouldn’t it be? There aren’t many estates in the world—and far fewer vineyards—that draw on this much history. Yet, shockingly, the family itself goes back even further, having been locally documented as Barons back in 931 AD. Current owner Heinz Heiler made a wise decision when he hired winemaker Claus Burmeister: He was raised in this very cellar, as his own father was head winemaker when Claus was growing up.
How It's Made:
Following the strictest organic practices, the Ravensburg team hand-picks their Blaufränkisch after making several passes through the vineyard. Only ripe, unflawed grapes make it into the winery, and even then, grapes are sorted yet again. Afterwards, a six-day cold maceration allows for added extraction and flavor before a long fermentation. All the while, whenever the juice moves from location to location, it is done so by gravity only. No pumps here! The wine ages in neutral oak barrels before bottling without filtration.
What It Tastes Like:
Blaufränkisch is grown throughout central Europe, and has many pseudonyms, but in most cases it is made into a dark, sturdy, tannic wine with pronounced spiciness. However, the special Sulsfeld terroir and the winemaking skills at Burg Ravensburg produces a more elegant, silky, and red-fruited version of this workhouse grape. Bing cherries and wild blackberries and raspberries are in abundance, along with notes of plum skin, graphite, iodine, smoked paprika, dried mushrooms, and damp earth. Serve a hearty lamb stew or anything off the grill.
