The lowest-priced wines from best-in-class producers have always been my bread and butter. The way I see it, a truly great estate is almost required, by reputation, to over-deliver at every price point—so, anytime I see a “lower end” bottling from a big-name producer, I’m betting on it being good. But Ronchi di Cialla’s “RiNera” is something else: It pays off more handsomely than I thought was possible. If you want to experience the greatest expressions of Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s native Schioppettino grape—and, trust me, you do—then Ronchi di Cialla is your first stop.
Ask anyone: The Rapuzzi family of Ronchi di Cialla almost single-handedly rescued Schioppettino from extinction, and have become the reference point not just for this variety but other important native grapes such as Pignolo, Verduzzo, and Picolit. What they achieve with “RiNera,” at just $29, is simply incredible: It may be the most magical combination of grape, place, producer, and price I’ve ever seen in this corner of Italy. I may be biased because of my love for the Schioppettino grape and its peppery, Syrah-like character, but this wine over-delivers in dramatic fashion. Italian wine lovers: This is one of the year’s most exciting finds!
When I first started visiting Friuli, Italy’s northeasternmost region, in the late-1990s, the most talked-about red wines among consumers were Bordeaux-style blends crafted from Merlot and the Cabernets; among producers, however, the excitement centered on once-forgotten local grapes such as Pignolo and Schioppettino. As with many native Italian grapes, Schioppettino—also known as Ribolla Nera, which this label references—was grown in a very specific geographic area—a few hamlets around the Friulian city of Cividale, and that’s it. In the mid-1970s, the local government was content to let it go extinct, but, thanks largely to the Rapuzzis, the grape has enjoyed a commercial and critical renaissance. Reminiscent at times of Northern Rhône Syrah and at others of Left Bank Bordeaux, this is not merely an “interesting” indigenous red but an important one.
“Ronchi” is the plural of a Friulian dialect word meaning “hillside,” and it is seen on more than a few Friulian wine labels. “Cialla” is the name of the small hamlet where the Rapuzzi farm is located, within the Friuli Colli Orientali DOC appellation. Alternately known as Ribolla Nera, Schioppettino has been the signature achievement of the Rapuzzi family of Ronchi di Cialla, who first purchased the estate in 1970 with the mission of showcasing indigenous grapes. Back then, Schioppettino vines were so scarce that the variety wasn’t even recognized by law as an “authorized” grape, but Dina and Paolo Rapuzzi sought out plant material wherever they could find it and eventually grafted more and more vineyards over to the grape. Their first commercial vintage of a varietal red from Schioppettino was 1977, and its success inspired others in the region to work with the variety. Nevertheless, it’s hardly a grape you see in wide circulation: Beyond Ronchi di Cialla, I can think of only a handful of Schioppettinos in any kind of significant distribution in the US market.
Dina and Paolo Rapuzzi’s sons, Pierpaolo and Ivan, have since joined the estate, which spans nearly 30 hectares of vineyards. For the RiNera bottling, Schioppettino grapes are sourced from two one-hectare parcels in Cialla, each with a different aspect but with the same marl and sandstone soils typical of the region. Vine age in these two sites ranges from 20 to 50 years, lending this unoaked bottling amazing concentration and aromatic complexity. The wine spent 12 months aging on its lees in stainless steel, followed by six months in bottle, before release.
This 2018 is a master class in the varietal character of the Schioppettino grape, which may be new to some: In the glass, it displays a deep ruby core moving to a magenta rim, with aromas of black/blue/purple fruits (blackberry, boysenberry) mixing with scents of lavender, violet, tar, turned earth, and a distinctive cracked pepper note that calls Northern Rhône Syrah to mind. It is medium- to medium-plus in body, with grainy tannins and great freshness, hinting at Bordeaux from St-Julien one moment and a Mourvèdre-based red from Provence the next. The wine’s mix of meaty, mineral notes and higher-toned florals is especially memorable: Decant it 30 minutes or so before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems and get ready for fireworks! Although BBQ season may be coming to a close for many, this wine definitely craves something well-charred, so consider pulling the cover off the grill and trying the attached recipe. Don’t worry, though: There are plenty of occasions for a taut, nuanced Italian beauty like this. Don’t miss it, and don’t stop at one bottle! Cheers!
