Devotees of Barolo wine know the “Ginestra” vineyard as one of the most acclaimed
crus in the region, made famous by luminaries like Domenico Clerico, Elio Grasso, and today’s featured producer, Renzo Seghesio. In fact, Seghesio may have the deepest connection to Ginestra of all: His family has lived atop the vineyard for generations, and his Barolo from the site is a reference-point in this star-studded appellation.
Today we’re offering Seghesio’s Langhe Nebbiolo, sourced entirely from Ginestra, which at $29 represents one of the best Italian wine values I’ve ever seen. As Italian wine fans know, wines labeled Langhe Nebbiolo are meant to be “baby” Barolos—released to the market much sooner, with softer tannins and less oak influence than their Barolo big brothers. Except some Langhe Nebbiolos break that mold and deliver Barolo-level complexity and structure at a fraction of the typical Barolo price. This is one of those wines, and I’m hard-pressed to name another Langhe Nebbiolo that can match its vineyard pedigree. This is a wonderfully complete Nebbiolo experience from the generous 2015 vintage—seriously impressive wine that drinks way above its price point. And it’ll make a perfect house red as winter approaches, so stock up if you can!
Since 1900, generations of Seghesios have lived on a farmstead (cascina) atop the “Pajana” vineyard, a sub-section of the Ginestra cru, on the eastern slopes of the village of Monforte d’Alba. For generations, they sold their fruit to others, but after studying viticulture and enology in nearby Alba, Renzo began vinifying his own wine from the family parcels, releasing his first bottles commercially in 1968. In addition to growing his wine label, Renzo took a lot of pride in his hometown of Monforte, serving as its mayor for 25 years and playing a key role in the construction of the town’s open-air amphitheater, a venue that attracts world-class musicians to Barolo country.
Seghesio’s importer, the inimitable Alan Sobczak, describes today’s “Ruri” not as a “baby Barolo” but as a “freakishly tall, teenage Nebbiolo.” I couldn’t say it better. Sourced from vineyards in the calcareous clay and yellow sandstone soils of Ginestra, the 2015 Ruri was aged in stainless steel tanks for 9 months, followed by another 9 in 1,500-liter oak vats before bottling. It shows off the powerful structure typical of the south-facing Ginestra
cru, but like so many ’15s we’ve tasted, the tannins are quite ripe and well-balance by a rich core of tangy cherry fruit. In the glass, it’s a bright garnet-red moving to pink and faint orange at the rim, with inviting aromas of Morello cherry, black raspberry, roses, violets, sandalwood, leather, and tobacco leaf. It is medium-plus in body, with loads of freshness pointing up the ripe fruit, after which a dusty, herbal note follows through on the finish. There are many Barolo wines costing twice as much that don’t deliver like this wine does, and of course that’s really the point I want to hammer home here: This level of sophistication, length, and complexity is very rare to see at this price point. Decant this wine 45 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems and you will be one very happy Nebbiolo drinker—happier still if you give it something to work with at the table. I always reflexively think of mushrooms, truffles, and other earthy flavors when sipping a wine like this, along with a little fat to counterbalance some of the acid and tannin. Check out the attached recipe for chicken marsala, a recipe which, like this wine, will never disappoint. Cheers!
