In Old Norse, “stad” ironically translates to “place.” As winemaker of Carneros’ family-owned Cuvaison Estate Wines since 2002, Steven Rogstad’s tenure is chock-full of accolades, cementing him as a master of cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. At Cuvaison, he applied a vineyard-driven approach to winemaking, honing in on differences between estate bottlings, small lots, and micro-lots. He calls Rogstad Wines his “sandbox,” a playground without boundaries that allows him to explore with purpose, or as he states: “...to entertain more fully my zest for Pinot Noir and its almost unparalleled ability to, chameleon-like, express its origin.” Rogstad calls terroir a “strange and uncomfortable notion,” which sticks with me. It’s not easy to wrap your brain around terroir—how one vineyard makes a Pinot taste like red fruits, while another vineyard makes it taste like darker fruits, how one vineyard shows Pinot’s pretty and floral side, while another shows its animal alter ego. So why is Van der Kamp a vineyard, what makes it special, and what part of the Pinot puzzle does it reveal?

Sonoma Mountain is an outlier appellation. Established in 1985, it’s positioned within the greater Sonoma Valley AVA. When we hear about “Mountain” AVAs in California, we tend to associate those places with Bordeaux varieties, but Sonoma Mountain is unusual because both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir thrive here. The appellation is restricted to the north and eastern slopes of the mountain, above 400 feet in elevation, where aspect, sun exposure, wind, and fog overlap and divide to create a web of microclimates (Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah, Zinfandel, Grenache, and even Grüner Veltliner grow here too!) The Van der Kamp vineyard, close to 1,400 feet, is at the very top of Sonoma mountain, overlooking the town of Glen Ellen to the east. What makes this site wild is that, according to Rogstad, it is “a cool climate, where it shouldn’t be.” It’s a north-facing bench, sitting above the frost line, at the crossroads of two fog banks. As one fog comes up from the Petaluma gap via the Russian River, and another fog creeps up from the San Pablo Bay, they contest and push each other aside, creating a pocket of sunshine within a sea of grey. This climatic phenomenon, a somewhat valley on top of a mountain, coupled with well-draining soils produces Pinot Noir fruit like no other—grapes with thicker skins, more flavor built by more structure, making it one of Northern California’s most beloved vineyards. 

Volcanic soils and loams are the core of Van der Kamp. Its patriarch is Martin Van der Kamp, who, according to Rogstad, is a “clever businessman and very spiritual guy” who views his family as “guardians” more than “owners” of the homestead which has been farmed for over 100 years. Martin’s son, Ulysses, lives on Van der Kamp and farms it organically. The vineyard has an eclectic selection of Pinot Noir clones, unmarked, so winemakers like Rogstad must spend time walking the property, noticing when the vines change from one clone to the next. The Rogstad 2015 Van der Kamp is a blend of clones 828, 777, and a rare old-vine clone called “La Tâche.” In terms of yield, the 2015 vintage was shy, only producing 3 barrels of today’s wine. Fermented in 500L oak puncheons, the wood is a good insulator, keeping temperatures warm to induce fuller flavor and aroma. Bottled without fining or filtration, the wine rested for 16 months in barrel, about one-third new. 

Today’s 2015 is altogether ripe yet balanced, with modest alcohol and an alluring mix of red and dark fruit, stuffed with all the quirks of terroir. Choose a Burgundy glass (or the widest glass you have), pop the cork, and serve Van der Kamp in the neighborhood of 60 degrees. In the glass, a vibrant ruby core holds steady to the rim, where it fades into pale pink. On the nose, the wine spills over with a mix of red fruits into black ones: crushed raspberries, strawberries, blackberries and dark plum. Unlike the fertile loams of the valley, which pile fruit upon fruit, the well-draining soils of Van der Kamp unleash wild and outdoorsy notes—a thick underbrush of purply-green, savory winter spice, black tea, and red earth. On the palate, the wine is not feathery nor chewy, but somewhere in between the two battling textures. The tannin feels like it comes from the concentration of fruit, not just the oak: it is plush and fine-grained, smoothing out the wine over palate like a rolling-pin to dough. Because of the wine’s complexity and detailed finish, this is a Pinot that can play with richer foods, too often reserved for Bordeaux grapes or big Italian reds. Dare we say steak? Yes, Van der Kamp can. The top sirloin is one of the leanest cuts of beef, which intimidates some of us because we are afraid that the meat is going to be too dry. Alton Brown has all the tricks when it comes to making something ordinary taste delicious. Here’s his recipe called “Election Night Steak,” in the hopes that we’ve earned your vote for Van der Kamp and Steven Rogstad! Cheers!