Full disclosure: While we’ve been transfixed by the 30-, 40-, and 50-year-old treasures that have been exhumed from the deep cellars of Remoissenet, there’s something equally, if not more captivating about an elite Premier Cru Burgundy opened between its fifth and eighth birthday. This is the razor-thin window where an explosive fusion of fruit and minerals have taken a step into the realm of savory secondaries. That exact reason is why today’s unforgettable bottle was the first to be drained alongside its decades-old comrades during our most recent visit to Remoissenet in Beaune.
It’s a powerful expression of Burgundy’s best and a masterpiece of a wine that rouses the deepest emotions. While a nod must be given to Remoissenet’s winemaking skill and a perfect cellar-direct provenance, the terroir whence it came deserves a deferential bow: A quick hillside stroll from today’s renowned 1er Cru “Les Damodes” will land you in La Tâche and La Romanée—legendary Grand Crus whose by-the-case prices surpass annual salaries! A numinous wine experience if there ever was one, today’s extraordinary offer reveals the breathtaking power of a world-famous terroir in one of the all-time, truly classic vintages of Burgundy. Bottom line: If Grand Cru juice needed a foolproof disguise, this would be it. First come, first serve—only nine cases imported!
Remoissenet was founded in 1877 and remained in the family until it was sold to a group of passionate investors in 2005. Intense quality measures were put in place by the new management team, which includes Bernard Répolt, veteran manager of Louis Jadot, and estate manager Pierre Rovani; the team quickly discontinued contracts with underachieving suppliers and signed long-term agreements with 31 new growers who focused on low yields and sustainable farming. Remoissenet may be known as a leading négociant house, but they have taken drastic measures to bring back the natural aspects of wine—case in point: Their vines in “Les Damodes” are farmed biodynamically. As such, Remoissenet has become a repeat A-list Burgundy supplier for SommSelect.
The chosen vines in “Les Damodes” were planted using selection massale to the ancient Pinot Fin clone of Pinot Noir—renowned for its compact, fit-in-your-palm clusters that produce superbly concentrated juice. The vines are situated on a gentle, east-facing limestone slope very close to the border of Vosne-Romanée, and subsequently “Aux Malconsorts.” Though they don’t own the parcel outright, Remoissenet had 100% authority over vine management, which allowed them to farm biodynamically and harvest low yields. After harvesting by hand, the grapes were fermented with indigenous yeasts in open vats and then aged in 350-liter French oak barrels (30% new). The wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered and up until three months ago, had never left Remoissenet’s dark cellars in Beaune.
As I write this in October, I still recall the tasting notes as if it were yesterday (despite enjoying this during a Remoissenet dinner way back in March). It’s a grand expression of Premier Cru Burgundy, full of concentrated power and haunting, high-toned notes that stir the very core of your soul. Either decant the wine for 60 minutes or do what Pierre Rovani did when he presented it to us: Pull the cork three hours beforehand and serve in LARGE Burgundy stems. The nose erupts with seductive, dark-fruited waves of rich black cherry liqueur, black raspberry, black plum, and cassis before revealing more intricate notes of crisp autumn leaves, damp moss, fresh violets, rose petal, clove, and other delicate touches of baking spice. As always, there is a youthful elegance here, but the five years of age has introduced a controlled whirlwind of earthy savor alongside polished tannins and prickling acidity. Over the next couple of years, this will prove to be a phenomenal, one-of-a-kind experience, but its cellar life will easily exceed 20. To all those who are still trying to understand top Burgundy, this will serve as your moment of clarity. There’s a reason Rovani calls Remoissenet “a merchant of pleasure.” Cheers!
