We’re trying to keep sports analogies to a minimum lately, but today’s wine brought one to mind: Occasionally, the bench players outperform the starters. When you think about Bordeaux-style blends from Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon will probably come to mind first. Varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot typically play supporting roles. But in today’s wine, Napa Valley veteran (and acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon stylist) Tor Kenward flipped the script and delivered a game-winner.
As always, Kenward’s access to many of the greatest vineyards in Napa paid dividends—in this case, two special sites in Oakville that yielded spectacular Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, respectively, for TOR’s 2014 Proprietary Red Wine. Dubbing this 2014 “one of the most exciting wines we have made” and “a lark that turned into a beautiful swan,” Kenward described how he and his longtime winemaking partner, Jeff Ames, came upon the idea—and the blend—for this wine as they tasted through barrel samples in their cellar. Like chefs working with the most impeccably sourced meats and vegetables, the pair have relationships with a trove of top growers, making happy accidents like this wine not so accidental (more like preordained, in fact). Although Cabernet Sauvignon makes an appearance, the 2014 Proprietary Red is not only a testament to Napa’s viticultural diversity but an homage to the heaviest-hitting reds of Bordeaux’s Right Bank. Only a few cases of this rare collectible were made available to us, so act fast if you’d like a uniquely delicious piece of history for your cellar.
As we’ve noted in previous TOR offers, single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from tip-top Napa Valley vineyards has long been Kenward’s calling card. But as you learn more about both him and Jeff Ames, what’s paramount is not grape but place. Everything with these guys is about walking vineyards and finding the best raw material possible. Rarely do you see Petit Verdot play such a prominent role in a wine (43% of this blend), whether in Napa or Bordeaux. Tasting this wine, the first thing I thought was, Petit Verdot, we need more of you in our lives! The dark-fruited, broodingly mineral element it brings to this wine is what sets it apart, especially when melded with the chocolate, tobacco, and leather notes from the Cabernet Franc (also 43%). Cabernet Sauvignon lends its concentrated cassis and blackcurrant fruit to the mix, but, unlike so many Napa Reds of this level, the TOR Proprietary Red leads with savor rather than sweetness. It’s a welcome departure in this regard: There’s a lot of Napa wine that skews way too sweet for me, whereas this one makes me crave a well-charred steak.
Kenward says he and Ames share a simple rule: To showcase the vineyard, not a “heavy winemaker’s hand.” (This from someone who was mentored by luminaries like Robert Mondavi and André Tchelistcheff.) He spent 27 years at Beringer on the business side but was known to make a few barrels for himself from some of their top vineyards; after he left Beringer, he and his wife, Susan, founded Tor Kenward Family Wines in 2001. And while his labels may indeed have his distinctive first name in ALL CAPS on the label, his principal aim is to showcase great vineyard sites. One of the two Oakville vineyards featured in today’s blend is not named, but the Petit Verdot comes from Vine Hill Ranch, an acclaimed site farmed by the Phillips family.
Only 375 cases of the 2014 Proprietary Blend were produced, the first of which were released in January of 2017 after aging in French oak barrels and bottle. Now with some further bottle age, the wine has knit together beautifully and offers a lot of dark-fruited, tooth-staining pleasure right now. In the glass, it’s an opaque ruby-black moving to magenta at the rim, with aromas of blackcurrant, mulberry, cassis, blueberry, cacao, licorice, dusty earth, and warm spices. It is full-bodied and viscous, but you can feel the fine-grained tannins lurking underneath. Surprising freshness keeps this muscular red nimble on the palate—it walks softly but carries a big stick, so to speak. Decant it 30 minutes or so before enjoying at 60 degrees in large Burgundy stems. Grilled ribeye does indeed seem like the right companion, preferably with a good amount of crust on it to play off the black-fruited goodness in the glass. Enjoy!