Today’s wine reminds us to take one foot out of Napa’s golden quicksand, widen the aperture, and see more. Exploring the other side of the Mayacamas Range is an eye-opening experience, which brings us to Alexander Valley and the fearlessly gifted winemaker, Jesse Katz. His label, Aperture, honors his globe-trotting photographer father,
Andy, whose camera escorted him around the world, to more than 80 countries, capturing a shuffle of emotions, including the bottomless allure of wine country
But a camera wasn’t Andy’s only travel companion: He had Jesse, who, as a teenager, experienced the light-reflecting gravel of Bordeaux, the shadows of Tuscan Cypresses, and the beautiful misty grays of Burgundy. For many, the wine “bug” tickles us as young adults, but for Jesse Katz, the bug bit prodigiously early. In 2010, at the age of 24, he became the youngest head winemaker in the country, embarking on a formative five-year tenure at Lancaster Estate. His global wine treks also resulted in a number of invaluable apprenticeships, including stints at Château Pétrus in Pomerol; Screaming Eagle and Robert Foley of Napa Valley; and Viña Cobos of Argentina. With his extensive network and seasoned acumen, Jesse could’ve started a winery anywhere in the world, but to him, it could only be one place: Alexander Valley. Sourced from an assortment of volcanic sites on the eastern hillsides of the appellation, today’s 2016 Cabernet is as impeccably focused and detailed as the Andy Katz photo that graces its label. Structured, delicious, critically acclaimed, and affordable...this has all the elements of a shrewd cellar selection. We don’t have much, so if silky Bordeaux-inspired Cabernet is your cup of tea, this is an offer not to miss!
One step closer to the Pacific than Napa Valley, sitting on the western side of the Mayacamas Mountains, Alexander Valley’s average temperature during growing season is a modest 72 degrees. Averages are deceiving, and Alexander Valley does get extremely hot, but like most places in California it depends if you’re on the cool side or the hot side (like driving from the Outer Richmond of San Francisco to the Mission District, scarf to t-shirt). The foggy hillside vineyards of Alexander Valley, like Napa Valley, have more infertile, sparse soils, and avoid the oppressive sun which blankets the valley floor. Because of this, the diurnal shift here is less dramatic, creating an even-keeled ripening season for Cabernet Sauvignon. And this neat phenomenon couldn’t be more apparent in the Aperture 2016, in which the fruit carries a rich, soothing tone over the seamless layers of Alexander Valley terroir, reminiscent of Bordeaux’s sweet and savory herbs.
The Aperture 2016 is a mixture of four hillside sites, south and southwest facing, with volcanic soils. In wine speak, “volcanic soils,” invokes far-away places like Mount Etna, Campania, and the Greek Island of Santorini, but we needn’t look so far. From Pritchard Hill of Napa Valley to the Obsidian Ridge of Lake County, down to Sonoma’s Moon Mountain, Alexander Valley shares fine company. These are some of the most underrated places for Cabernet Sauvignon in the United States. It’s difficult to put all of these places in the same bucket, but there is a deep red-fruited, mineral gloss that makes moderate climate, volcanic-soil Cabernet glide. Jesse Katz is in Alexander Valley for all the right reasons, making extraordinary wines that erase the increasingly challenged line between Sonoma and Napa Cabernet.
Today’s offer sets the bar ambitiously high for Alexander Valley Cabernet. 100% hand-harvested, the fruit is efficiently brought to the winery within a couple of hours of being picked. A cold-soaking of the grapes, in minimal contact with oxygen, lasts 4-7 days, gently extracting color and flavor. Every lot within the four parcels ferments separately with native yeasts and aging takes place in 50% new French oak for 18 months. Heavily dominated by Cabernet, 7% Merlot widens and relaxes Cabernet’s stiff tannins. Besides being bottled unfined and unfiltered, this 2016 is also not acidified; perfectly situated hillside fruit breathes a little bit easier on this side of the mountains.
Polish your finest Bordeaux glasses, decant the wine, and let it rest for 30 minutes or so. In the glass, a plum-colored core etches into a bright crimson on the rim and the faintest line of tawny suggests worthy time in oak. After the first swirl, the wine perks with blackberries, raspberries, and mulberry. On the palate, dark cocoa, sweet dried herbs, and volcanic crumble are warm and savory, balanced by the succulent fruits. The tannins are plush and pillowy, and the deep flavorful finish hangs out for a while, in all areas of your palate. A little more restrained than a classic Napa style, I like this Cabernet with lamb over beef. Remember, it’s ok to get your hands a little dirty, take a moment to step out of your drinking shell, and see the whole picture.
