TOR, “Herb Lamb Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon
California / Napa Valley, United States 2015 (750mL)
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TOR, “Herb Lamb Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon
If you were to list the most time-honored names in Napa viticulture and winemaking, where would your mind take you? You’d be off to a fantastic start with Robert Mondavi, André Tchelistcheff, and Maynard Amerine—all of whom were legends that vaulted Napa to international fame. Shaking their hands, let alone spending time with them, would have made for some extraordinary life lessons.
Tor Kenward, the man behind today’s monumental label, did just that, and a whole lot more: He was mentored by all three of these icons, extracting every ounce of information availed to him and channeling it into his long, fruitful career at Beringer Vineyards—whose Cabernet bottlings in the ’80s and ’90s epitomized the heart and soul of classic Napa wine. So, when he launched TOR, his very own micro-label, the spotlight was immediately upon him, and the wines rose to the occasion. Today’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the Herb Lamb Vineyard—made famous by Colgin—is a perfect example. I’d go as far as to label it a ‘region-defining’ wine, one that demands a large spot in any smart California cellar.
Tor Kenward, the man behind today’s monumental label, did just that, and a whole lot more: He was mentored by all three of these icons, extracting every ounce of information availed to him and channeling it into his long, fruitful career at Beringer Vineyards—whose Cabernet bottlings in the ’80s and ’90s epitomized the heart and soul of classic Napa wine. So, when he launched TOR, his very own micro-label, the spotlight was immediately upon him, and the wines rose to the occasion. Today’s Cabernet Sauvignon from the Herb Lamb Vineyard—made famous by Colgin—is a perfect example. I’d go as far as to label it a ‘region-defining’ wine, one that demands a large spot in any smart California cellar.
In its impeccable balance especially, this is a wine that shows off the assurance that comes with 40 years of experience. Of course, the vineyard source—Herb Lamb—happens to be one of the grandest Napa sites of them all. When Ann Colgin debuted her vineyard-designate Herb Lamb Cabernet in 1992, it triggered pandemonium, as everyone who blind tasted the wine mistook it for “sumptuous first-growth Bordeaux.” This is why we’re elated to say that, 23 years later, TOR merits that same honor. It’s a “yardstick” wine, and as you may have guessed, it comes with a caveat: quantities are extremely limited, with only nine barrels produced in 2015.
The Herb Lamb Vineyard takes its eponymous name from a late, great Napa native who planted this site in the 1980s. Pitched on the lower side of Howell Mountain and above the valley appellation of St. Helena, this intimate, northeast-exposed vineyard is split into three distinct segments, with the cream of the crop coming from the sun-bathed middle section—the section TOR is able to pull from. To Tor Kenward and his small team, hand-farming these sustainably farmed grapes to preserve their place of origin is of utmost importance.
Back on the property, the winemaking operations are overseen by Jeff Ames, a man who, according to an interview with Wine Spectator, went from penniless and sleeping on egg-crate foam to becoming a Napa winemaking icon in 10 short years. Great efforts are made to ensure the wine delivers ample power and texture while simultaneously allowing terroir to shine: Fermentation occurred with natural airborne yeasts, pump-downs were kept to a minimum, and maceration was a quick 14 days in order to moderate extraction. Following, the wine was gently transferred into new French oak—but not from a run-of-the-mill cooper. This wine matured in finely-grained, top-of-the-line Taransaud barrels. After 18 months of undisturbed aging, the final wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered.
TOR’s 2015 “Herb Lamb” release is a colossal Cabernet that delivers everything we love about the greatest modern Cab creations while leaving out the undesirables (alcoholic burn, oleaginous extraction, extreme ripeness). It’s the magic combination of site, winemaker, and life experience that allows TOR to not only be impressively beautiful in its youth but a force to be reckoned with 10-20 years from now (I can think of several $300+ wines that would be a flabby-fruited stew at this age). In the glass, it pours an opaque crimson-purple with a vibrantly dense ruby hue moving out to the rim. Sure, there is immense viscosity and concentration here, but all that is more than welcome if it has structure—and TOR brings it in spades. Créme de cassis, black raspberry, blueberry, and black cherry soak up a firm volcanic mineral imprint alongside cedar shavings, pipe tobacco, cacao nibs, and cloves.
The palate is a gorgeously opulent treat that delivers a wonderful assortment of red, black, and blue fruits. Tannins have been masterfully buffed to deliver a stunningly polished, ultra-smooth mouthfeel that complements the gripping minerality and savory spices on this monumental Cabernet. It’s luxurious and serious, so treat it accordingly: serve in your largest Bordeaux stems after a 30-60 minute decant and enjoy every ounce of it right next to a succulent, extra-tender slab of meat: the ribeye cap. Save it the most special of occasions because this wine and cut of beef isn’t priced as an everyday indulgence. Still, when it finally comes time to savor it, the memory—not the money—will be the only thing on your mind. Enjoy!
