One of the buzzwords floating around the wine world right now is “cult,” and when critics start churning out scores, many so-called “cult wines” end up at or near the top. Scarecrow is one of those high-flying names that is always in the conversation, along with the likes of Screaming Eagle, Harlan, Abreu, and Bryant Family, among others.
These flashy labels, however, are both extremely expensive and often extremely difficult to acquire, so where do we go from here? You branch out to discover other projects their lead winemakers have worked on. Exhibit A: Winemaker Celia Welch (formerly Masyczek) has enjoyed a rich 15-year history at Scarecrow, but in her early stages, she was also crafting opulent, impeccably balanced reds at Rocca, and today’s 2007 marks her last vintage there. Entirely sourced from Rocca’s family-owned “Grigsby Vineyard,” this Cabernet-heavy site has a smattering of highly coveted Merlot that was organically farmed and hand-picked before Celia got her skilled hands on them. With the same principles she uses at Scarecrow today, she masterfully blended a wine that saw extensive oak aging before bottling in 2009. After a decade of age the result leaves memories of the legendary wines of Pomerol with the classic polish we all love in the best Napa reds. It has remained in a temperature-controlled cellar since then and is awaiting your outstretched hand. Price-to-quality is off the charts and quantities are limited, so don’t drag your feet!
Husband-wife team Mary Rocca & Dr. Eric Grigsby put their heads together back in ‘95 and came up with the idea for Rocca Family Vineyards. As with all good things, however, it didn’t materialize out of thin air. They wanted to locate the absolute best spot for their premier estate vineyard, so they went vine hunting, and after three years of valley-floor searching, they uncovered a 21-acre jewel within the sub-AVA of Yountville. They quickly went to work and were blessed with another miracle after Celia agreed to come aboard to craft the inaugural release in 2000.
If you keep up with Napa wine—and those equipped with a cellar certainly do—you know that top reds from here go head-to-head with the best in the world. That said, you most likely would not mistake Rocca for Bordeaux in a blind tasting—but that’s not a bad thing! As long as a California wine shows balance and purity, I’ll always go to bat for my home state. I contribute Rocca’s “sweet spot” to their holistic philosophies, thanks in large part to their longtime vineyard manager’s push for organic certification and Celia’s belief that “the art of making great wine begins in the vineyard.” In 2007, grapes were hand harvested and each variety was vinified and raised separately. After long fermentations, gentle punchdowns, and nine months of aging in French barrels, the Merlot was finally blended with small percentages of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon before returning to barrel for another six months. After bottling, the wine unfined and unfiltered, they allowed it to rest 18 additional months before its release in December 2010. Having enjoyed many more years of undisturbed bottle age, it is in its ideal drinking window right now.
In the glass, Rocca’s 2007 “Grigsby Vineyard” Merlot reveals an impenetrable, dark garnet red core that moves out to a distinctly lighter rim. A natural light sediment is present so I recommend standing the bottle upright the day prior to consumption. When ready to enjoy, pull the cork and treat the wine to a gentle decant—after about 30 minutes, pour yourself a generous amount in large Bordeaux stems. If you do not have a decanter, simply pull the cork an hour prior to serving and anticipate a bit a sediment in the last ounce or two. The wine quickly blossoms, so ready yourself for powerful aromas of kirsch, black raspberries, morello cherries, cacao, cedar, crushed stones, chocolate-covered strawberries, and numerous baking spices that meld alongside hints of dusty earth, cedar and sweet tobacco notes which are often found in Bordeaux. That’s the beauty of valley floor Merlot, a great vintage, a renowned winemaker, and extensive aging in new French
barriques. The wine is full-bodied and sheds full-throttle opulence from start to finish that is alway accompanied by a persisting lift of freshness and ultra-svelte tannins. You want a luxurious Napa red that is experiencing a window of perfect integration? This is it—and I see it drinking at this elite level until 2025. It’s hard to imagine enjoying this 2007 Rocca Merlot without a tender cut of red meat beside it, so pair it with the attached tomahawk steak and make sure you invite a significant other along for the ride—it wouldn’t be fair (or healthy) to take down this pairing alone!
