Selene Wines takes its name from Greek mythology, and more specifically, from the “mother goddess” of the full moon. It’s an apt choice for proprietor/winemaker Mia Klein, who’s one of the mother goddesses of California wine.
Klein started her career at Chappellet alongside another mother goddess, Cathy Corison, and went on to become a sought-after consultant for labels such as Spottswoode, Araujo, and Viader. She started Selene in 1991, with a focus on the Bordeaux varieties that thrive in the loamy, cobble-strewn soils of the Napa Valley, and while Cabernet Sauvignon is certainly part of the mix, Klein’s “Chesler” bottling—which we’re offering at a steal of a price today—is an homage to the great Cabernet Franc-based reds of Bordeaux’s Right Bank. Put your nose in a glass of this wine and you’ll think you’re in one of the pricier precincts of Saint-Émilion, so soulful and spot-on is its sweet-meets-savory Cab Franc character. A wave of red and black fruits meet up with textbook damp clay, tobacco and sage notes in a wine that captures the old-vine concentration of a heritage vineyard site without being overwrought or jammy. It’s what you’d expect from an accomplished winemaker who remembers the Napa Valley of yore, and it’s nice to know that wines of this pedigree, at this price, can still be made in Napa. It’s easily one of the best Napa values we’ve offered all year, and it promises to (over) deliver for many years to come.
Over the course of her long and distinguished career, which, as noted, included consulting stints with some heavy-duty Cabernet Sauvignon labels, Klein never abandoned Merlot (for which she professes an abiding love) or Cabernet Franc. Luckily, neither did the Frediani family in Calistoga, who farm one of northern California’s great heritage vineyards (more on them
here), some blocks of which were planted as far back as 1905. Both the Cabernet Franc (85%) and the Merlot (15%) for “Chesler” come from old vines in the clay/loam and gravel soils of the Frediani Vineyard, a valley floor site with wide day-night temperature swings. By any measure, Calistoga is a “hot” climate, but the 2015 Chesler doesn’t read as a hot wine; it has a firm mineral and tannic backbone to check its considerable extract. In comparison to a lot of the juicy, blockbuster Bordeaux blends out there these days, this one feels more sculpted and soil-expressive.
Klein named this wine for her mother, Eileen Chesler, the lady seen waterskiing on the front label. She co-fermented the Cabernet Franc and Merlot in 2015, then aged the wine for 16 months in 50% new French oak before bottling. In the glass, it’s an opaque garnet red with purple/black highlights, with an explosive nose of black and red raspberry, currants, black plum, tobacco, hints of sage and mint, ground coffee, dark chocolate, and damp clay. It is full-bodied but not egregiously so, with a dark mineral edge and a chocolate-kissed finish. What would likely pull me back to the “New World” if blind-tasting this wine would be the ripe, fine-grained tannins, which lend a firm but not choking grip. It checks every ‘luxury’ red box except ‘sweet,’ which we appreciated, and of course the price for a wine of this quality is simply unheard of. “Chesler” is very enjoyable now after about 45 minutes in a decanter: Enjoy it at 60-65 degrees in big, beautiful Bordeaux stems with the attached beef tenderloin recipe. There are some beautiful complementary flavors in this pairing, and a tremendous amount of wine here for the money. Enjoy!