Despite Champagne being known for its chalky soils, there are many other additions—sand, clay, and limestone—in the Petite Montagne, a north-south stretch of land where Pinot Meunier reigns supreme. With this diversity of soil, grower-producer Pascal Ponson has created five generations of delectable world-class bubbles at a seriously low price. The amount of study and care they’ve put into Pinot Meunier has not gone unnoticed, either—it’s hour of reckoning has come!
This versatile grape has entered its very own renaissance and, like Ponson and some other contemporaries around Champagne (e.g. Egly-Ouriet, Bérêche, Jérôme Prévost, Christophe Mignon), the excitement behind the grape has entered the world stage. Today’s Prestige is sourced from Premier Cru villages just west of Reims and delivers such an immense level of enjoyability, thanks to the driving force of Pinot Meunier. One sip of this wonderfully fresh and floral Champagne and you’ll be in paradise—especially when you reflect on how little you paid. Case purchases are available, so whether it needs to be a party pleaser, an apéritif for a multi-course dinner, or just a delicious bottle on any given night, Pascal Ponson’s Prestige is guaranteed to outperform any and all expectations you set for it!
A leisurely 15-minute drive due west of Reims will land you in the absurdly photogenic town of Gueux. As you enter the commune limits along the D27, you’ll find yourself flanked by
pitboxes and ad-plastered stands—this portion of road was used as a Grand Prix circuit in years past, and it is here where you’ll find one of Champagne’s most coveted cult wines: Jérôme Prévost’s single-vineyard, 100% Pinot Meunier bottling “Les Beguines.” Heading south another mile will put you in Vrigny—made famous by Egly-Ouriet’s old-vine bottling of Meunier, “Les Vignes de Vrigny.” And just less than a mile further is Coulommes-La-Montagne, home of fifth-generation grower-producer Pascal Ponson.
Champagne Pascal Ponson has been a culmination of five generations who have handled every aspect of their production, from soil to bottle. The village of Coulommes-La-Montagne, less than 10 miles outside of the epicenter of Reims, is home to their family-run estate and all of their vineyard holdings are within Premier Cru designations. Currently, Maxime Ponson is the man in charge, and he is passionate about crafting Champagnes that compete with the greats of Petite Montagne while retaining a “grower mentality.” Using only Premier Cru fruit from Petite Montagne villages, Ponson’s “Prestige” is a blend of 80% Pinot Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay. After aging a minimum of three years on its lees, it received a dosage (sugar addition) of 10 grams per liter, lending to its rich and textured style. Today’s bottling is their most recent disgorgement—December of 2017.
“Prestige” displays a brilliant yellow core with light gold and green reflections on the rim. Rich and creamy aromas of red and yellow apple, quince, lemon blossom, white mushroom, honeysuckle, toasted nuts, and delicate flowers are woven around a strong mineral core of crushed stones and chalk. Pascal Ponson has mastered a simultaneously crisp style alongside layers of dense, creamy fruit, giving it a textured, yet ethereal feel—that’s the power of ripe Meunier from a tried-and-true producer. Most Pinot Meunier Champagnes are built for early consumption (there are great exceptions, of course) but this one can do both: it’s ready to enjoy now and over the next several years. “Prestige” should ideally be served between 50-55 degrees in a wide-mouthed tulip or simply an all-purpose white stem. For a pairing, don’t limit yourself to one option; this is a versatile wine. Last year, we paired it with smoked salmon canapés, but this fresh disgorgement is begging to be enjoyed as a standalone apéritif! However, if you bought multiple bottles (as you should!), open another one and match it with some freshly grilled halibut marinated in a citrus sauce. It’s light, clean, and won’t overshadow the satisfyingly crisp and ripe feel of the wine. Cheers!
