I can’t stress enough how much today’s wine over-performs at this price. It is one of the most elegant and aromatically appealing examples of Sangiovese I’ve had in quite a while—so much so that as I write about now, I’m craving a fresh bottle for dinner tonight. This is our second offering of a Nobile di Montepulciano from Salcheto, a producer whose faith in the Sangiovese grape—and its capacity for greatness—is something I can get behind.
This 2014 is the product of a “difficult” vintage, though you’d never know by tasting it, since the Salcheto team decided not to make either their Riserva-level Nobile di Montalcino or their old-vine, vineyard-designate cuvée, “Salco,” and instead channel all that fruit into this bottling. The result is a wine that is, above all, exceptionally pretty—not the outcome we’ve been conditioned to expect under such circumstances. We’re conditioned to expect a “bigger” wine, and to believe that bigger is better, even though this wine bests its 2013 predecessor (which we offered last year) by being more finessed, perfumed, balanced, and as ‘Burgundian’ as Tuscan Sangiovese gets. All of which is a roundabout way of saying: try this wine. You will like it. A lot.
Given the shifting tides of fashion in the “big three” regions of Tuscany (Chianti Classico; Montepulciano; Montalcino), it’s significant that this Nobile di Montepulciano is crafted from 100% Sangiovese. The regulations governing Chianti Classico and Nobile di Montepulciano production have changed numerous times, particularly in terms of what is “allowable” in blends; when I first started studying Italian wine 20 years ago, a lot of the focus in the Chianti and Montepulciano regions was on ‘international’ varieties such as Cabernet and Merlot, and how incorporating these grapes attracted both critical attention and new consumers to the wines. Montalcino, meanwhile—where 100% Sangiovese wines are the law—was rocked by scandal a few years ago when several producers were caught ‘adulterating’ their wines with grapes other than Sangiovese—in search of an inkier, richer, more ‘international’ style.
At present, the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG requires a minimum of 70% Sangiovese for a wine to carry the designation; Chianti Classico’s minimum is 80%, but in both cases, 100% Sangiovese is also permissible. This wasn’t always the case, and in the past, producers who wanted to make a ‘varietal’ Sangiovese wine had to do so without the DOC(G) appellation on the label. The most famous example of this was Montevertine’s legendary, all-Sangiovese “Le Pergole Torte,” made right in the heart of Chianti Classico.
Salcheto’s Nobile di Montepulciano is emblematic of shifting tides in Tuscany, as all-Sangiovese expressions of Nobile di Montepulciano are becoming more common. The estate’s vineyards are certified organic (they employ biodynamic practices as well), and owner Michele Manelli has put his money where his mouth is when it comes to sustainability: The winery is removed from the local electric grid, powered completely by solar and other renewable sources. Manelli also calculates (and publishes on the label) the carbon footprint of each bottle of wine he makes. He designed a special, lighter-weight bottle, called the “Bordolese Toscanella,” to maximize efficiencies during shipping.
Salcheto’s wines are hand-harvested, fermented only on indigenous yeasts, and treated with the lowest amount of sulfur possible. This 2014 was aged for 18 months in a mix of large, Slavonian oak
botti (70%) and 500-liter French oak
tonneaux, followed by six months in bottle before release. In the glass, the 2014 is a reflective ruby red moving to pink and garnet at the rim, with a highly perfumed nose of red and black cherry, strawberry, rose petals, tomato leaf, baking spices, and underbrush. It is medium-bodied and silky smooth on the palate, with a bright blast of freshness that drives a long and aromatic finish. Wines need not to be “big” to make a powerful, lasting impact—as this wine proves unequivocally. While it should improve measurably over the next 3-5 years, there’s no reason to wait to enjoy this: Decant it about 30 minutes before serving at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems. There’s enough finesse here for roast chicken, although the addition of some earthy truffles will take the pairing to the next level. Check out the attached recipe—it’s a combination you won’t forget!
