Although Oregon still holds the Pinot Noir value-for-dollar crown, there’s some serious competition coming from the Germanic appellations of Europe—especially Alsace and its neighbor on the other side of the Rhine, Baden. Located in Germany’s southwest corner, Baden is distinct from most of its Rhine-adjacent counterparts farther north, and many wine lovers are surprised to learn that more than half of its vineyard land is planted to members of the Pinot family—which is to say that today’s exuberant rosé of Pinot Noir is the product of a long tradition in the region.
Much of Baden’s Pinot Noir arrived via some of the same Catholic monks who planted it in Burgundy, but the tradition of serious quality in Baden is considerably more recent. Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein is a great example: It goes back eleven generations but keeps on striving, receiving a “Rising Star of the Year” accolade from the Gault & Millau wine guide in 2010. Their 2017 Rosé is an aromatic and wonderfully refreshing expression of Pinot Noir at an unbeatable price—more ‘mountain meadow’ than ‘sea breeze,’ but no less refreshing because of it. It also happens to be a supremely good value, so if your rosé supply needs a re-stock, here’s one that’ll do the trick!
First acquired by the von Gleichenstein family in 1634, the estate was a multi-faceted farm in the low-lying mountain range of
Kaiserstuhl—one of the prime terroirs for Pinot Noir in Baden. Much later, in 1959, the family’s successful farming business was fully converted to a wine operation and they haven’t looked back: Current proprietors Baron Johannes and Baroness Christina von Gleichenstein (the 11th generation) oversee their estate’s 125 acres—all of which are planted to classic Burgundy varieties with some smatterings of Muscat and Müller-Thurgau. Oddly enough, you won’t find them growing any Riesling here—they have stayed true to the Burgundy comparisons with a unique touch: The expansive, undulating landscape of Kaiserstuhl is famous for ancient volcanic soils and it is here where the noble Pinot Noir grape has flourished. Today’s “Hofgarten” rosé of Pinot Noir comes from vines buried in these volcanic-loess soils. These grapes are picked and gently pressed at their nearby winery, where they both ferment and age in stainless steel for several months.
In the glass, von Gleichenstein’s “Hofgarten” rosé reveals an extremely bright salmon core leading out to slight silver reflections. Everything on the nose is garden-fresh and lively with a massive rush of freshly picked strawberries at the fore. Aromas of ripe raspberry, red and white flowers, bing cherries, and damp herbs follow, with a hint of crushed rock minerality. The fruits on the palate are wonderfully ripe and plump, with extremely bright acidity that pings the palate with a pleasing jolt. “Hofgarten” is a drink-now style: Serve around 45-50 degrees in all-purpose stems on a day where temperatures are creeping toward the undesirable triple digit mark. Pair with a cold halibut-based ceviche, have a second bottle at the ready, and you’ll be fully prepared to ward off the heat in style. Cheers!
