A few times each year, a modestly priced wine leaps out of obscurity, grabs me by the collar, and demands my full attention and curiosity. Such was the case with today’s smoking Spanish red. I was attending a tasting of luxury-priced Rioja and Sicilian reds, but this bottle, tucked away in a forgotten corner, was the wine that stole the show.
While I was blown away by the undeniable quality, I couldn’t reconcile its vivid, dark fruit and refreshing minerality with its impossibly low price. I have a million last-minute parties and fundraisers this time of year, so keeping a case of wines like this around can really save the day. Still, in the rare instances when an affordable wine delivers at this remarkably high level, one generally expects a name and reputation to match. This bottle had neither. So, I decided to do a little research. A few phone calls and a some reading quickly divulged what I had already guessed: The family and property behind today’s delicious and soulful red, Vera de Esteñas, has everything one might expect from a far more prestigious and ‘big-ticket’ estate. This is a no-brainer by-the-case purchase that is certain to impress, so feel free to stock up.
Founded in 1945, Vera de Esteñas is a family owned bodega that has, since its inception, been producing red wines from centuries-old ancient vineyards planted to local variety, Bobal. The picturesque property is perched at 2,500 feet in the foothills of the Sierra de Remedio mountain range, just outside the village of Utiel. Due to its chalky, calcareous soils and generously warm and consistent climate, Utiel is home to a long tradition of wine production. In a region that sometimes falls prey to industrialization and trend-chasing, Vera de Esteñas holds tight to the region’s traditions and has built their success—and what I expect will be a rapidly growing reputation—on organic farming and pure, terroir-driven reds like today’s 2016 single variety Bobal.
Utiel is one hour due west of Spain’s sun-kissed eastern coastline and the picturesque city of Valencia. Valencia offers many cultural and culinary pleasures, but to me it will always be about one thing: Paella. If you’ve never attempted a proper Paella at home, I implore you to do so immediately! This
recipe from one of my favorite local specialty food merchants is as easy, foolproof and incredibly delicious an introduction to home Paella preparation as you will ever encounter. Its succulent chicken, smoky sausage, and savory toasted rice are a dream pairing for this juicy and rustic red.
But let’s get back to the wine. The 2016 Vera de Esteñas Bobal is the product of 50- to 100-year-old Bobal vines, planted to this village’s classic chalky, calcareous soil. All farming is organic and fruit is harvested each Autumn by hand. Fermentation occurs in large cement fermenters before the wine is aged in aged further in cement and a small amount in large, neutral American oak barrels. The end result is a invigoratingly fresh and dark fruit-driven wine that punches far above its price.
The region’s warm climate and the Bobal variety’s dark hue are well represented visually in the 2016 Vera de Estenas’ dark and crimson-purple core. Vivid black plum, currant and cherry fruit coats this wine’s firm, calcareous foundation. Everything is dusted with the essence of this region’s chalky soil and a subtle hint of mature oak, before a satisfying and thirst-quenching finish that begs for another bite of Paella. There just aren’t many wines like this in the market—all told, it’s an impressively balanced and adult red for such a modest price. Please decant for 45 minutes before serving in standard Bordeaux stems. This wine won’t improve indefinitely, but it offers unbeatable value and at least another 3-4 years of guilt-free pleasure. Whether it’s for your own personal consumption, or as a reliably over-delivering gift or holiday donation, you won’t regret making this wine part of your Winter 2017 rotation. Cheers!
