Word in the industry is that prominent Spanish estates have been vying for the vines of the Fernández Gómez family, whose roots in Rioja go back more than a century.
Their holdings in the Riojan towns of Labastida (where the winery is located), Briñas, Villalba and Briones are coveted sources for premium, sustainably grown, ancient-vine Tempranillo (among other classic varieties), and today’s wine shows off that heritage while also offering incredible value-for-dollar. This 2014 shows the complexity and depth of a Reserva, but retains the youthful fruit characteristic of proper Crianza styles. Fruit-forward and driven by minerality, it explodes onto the palate with gusto and has a way of making sure your hand is always within reach of the stem. After we tasted this wine, it was immediately shortlisted for sub-$30 Spanish red of the year. I’m confident you will agree.
In the glass, the 2014 Tierra Crianza reveals a dark ruby, near-garnet center leading out to slight pink reflections on the rim. Dense fruit is flaunted on the nose: ripe black cherry, sweet and sour plum, boysenberry, currant, and peeled persimmon. On the palate, the classic elegance of Rioja is revealed with a rush of wild herb, dried dill, sandalwood, and a touch of exotic spice. This is a wine full of personality, unabashed to show off its juicy core followed by a bright, lingering finish. Although its Crianza label denotes a wine that’s ready to drink now, I can absolutely see this improving over the next 3-5 years. When consuming, allow for a quick 15-30 minute decant at a hair above cellar temperature. It will pair with an array of dishes, but my mind put it alongside a tender pork roast with a cheese/charcuterie appetizer that should (always) include manchego and chorizo. ¡Salud!