Paul Skinner has a PhD in soil science, and has worked for decades as a consultant to vine growers throughout California and abroad, monitoring everything from pruning and leaf-thinning to soil moisture and disease prevention. His life’s work has been to shepherd vines through the growing season and deliver perfect, healthy fruit to wineries—of course he had to take the next step and make some of his own wine from those lovingly tended grapes. How could he not?
He’s seen lots of great wine come out of Pride Mountain Vineyards, where he’s been the viticulturist since 1990, and it’s in the Pride facilities that his Sequum Wines—sourced both from his own, two-acre ranch in St. Helena as well as an assortment of other prime Napa Valley sites—come to life. Sequum is a scientific term describing the sequence of layers in soil, an apt name for Skinner’s solo project, which launched in 2003. This wine, Sequum’s 2013 “Four Soil Mélange” is indeed a layered and terroir-expressive Napa Valley Cabernet pieced together from four distinct vineyard sources; its power, complexity, and yes, soil expression is truly impressive at this price point. We were floored by the wine’s combination of life energy and sumptuous concentration. It has the structure and breed of a much-more-expensive wine, which is a tribute to Skinner’s meticulous care for his raw material. Lovers of classically proportioned Napa Cabernet should not miss this terrific value.
In the glass, the 2013 “Four Soil” Cabernet is a deep, nearly opaque ruby with purple reflections at the rim. The aromas are textbook Napa Valley Cabernet: black plum, cassis, black and red cherry, cacao, tobacco, warm baking spices and a nice hint of graphite/crushed stone. It is medium-plus in body, with silty, well-integrated tannins lending grip and a mineral edge. It is powerful but approachable, thanks to a refreshing level of acidity that balances the considerable fruit extract. It is deliciously drinkable now, needing only 30 minutes or so in a decanter before serving in Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees. I think of this as a workhorse red that will consistently deliver over the next 5-7 years, a genuinely serious wine you can trot out regularly without breaking the bank. Check it out with a saucy steak au poivre as in the attached recipe. French-inspired pairings like this help make America great. Enjoy!