SommSelect Editorial Director (and Italian wine specialist) David Lynch muses on the similarities between Barolo and Burgundy, which are very much on display in this wine.
If you drink any amount of either, you’ve likely heard someone (maybe me) liken Barolo to Burgundy. There are certainly plenty of physical and cultural similarities—both are relatively cool, often wet, ‘continental’ climates, and both are defined by their meticulously mapped-out terroirs and age-worthy, vineyard-designated wines—but in terms of the comparative personalities of the Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir grapes and their wines, I don’t always see it. (To be honest, I’m more often inclined to compare Tuscany’s Sangiovese to Pinot Noir.) There’s no question that both Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir are distinguished by their aromatic intrigue, but otherwise you’re likely to find Barolo to be decidedly more savory, tannic, and brooding compared to Burgundy. Having said all that…this 2012 Barolo from Cantina Stroppiana is, well, pretty darn ‘Burgundian.’ I never said never, right? In fact, this wine speaks to the conventional wisdom on Barolo wines from the commune of La Morra—traditionally the source of the prettiest, less fiercely tannic, more fruit-driven renditions of Nebbiolo. Stroppiana’s 2012 “Leonardo” Barolo is a great choice to enjoy now and over the next few years, offering all the aromatic complexity one could ask for without the extra blast of tannin that characterizes some vintages. And then there’s the price: Once again, we’ve got a world-class collectible coming in under $40, the latest in a long line of Barolos to do so here at SommSelect.
And actually, the more I think about it, the more I’m drawn to Burgundy comparisons here. Both Burgundy and Barolo are among the shrinking number of terroirs around the world that still experience vintage variation (excessive rain and/or hail can be devastating in both places). Both also show often significant style variations from one village to the next. We talk a lot here about how the wines of Chambolle-Musigny are more perfumed and ‘pretty’ than the darker-robed, more powerful wines of Gevrey-Chambertin. They’re two towns over! If you were to put five Barolos from La Morra side-by-side with five from Serralunga—a village just across the small valley that comprises the Barolo appellation—you would detect similar differences. Vineyards on the western side of the Barolo zone tend to have a higher percentage of clay in their soils and aspects that skew south-southeast (meaning they take in morning sun, leading to more fruit and a little less tannin); in Serralunga, not only do the soils contain more sandstone but the vineyards skew more to the southwest, giving the wines more tannic structure and a darker, more mineral aspect.
The Stroppiana family farms just 5.5 hectares of vineyards, most of which are located near their home base in Rivalta, a hamlet within the municipality of La Morra. They also tend some vines in neighboring Verduno (home to both Castello di Verduno and G.B. Burlotto, two standard-bearers of the finessed, perfumed, more high-toned style of Barolo). This wine, “Leonardo,” is named for its fourth-generation co-proprietor, Leonardo Stroppiana, who works alongside his father, mother, and sister at the small estate (they also farm 14 hectares of hazelnut groves). The Leonardo bottling is effectively the estate’s “base” Barolo, sourced from vineyards in La Morra and Verduno, most of which have near full-south exposure at elevations reaching 400 meters. After fermentation, the wine spent 24 months in French oak barriques (they don’t indicate what percentage were new, but I get a pretty subdued oak influence on this wine). It was then transferred to larger oak vats until its bottling in August 2013. It then spent another year in bottle in their cellars before it was released into the market. Traditionally, Barolo wines were released in January, three years after the vintage year (as in, you’d first see a 2012 for sale in 2015).
The 2012 Barolo “Leonardo” is an absolute beauty, starting with its bright garnet/crimson hue with slight orange highlights at the rim (the classic Nebbiolo cast). The aromas are bright and highly perfumed, with notes of dried cherry, red currant, blood orange peel, rose petal, pipe tobacco, and sandalwood. The acidity is bright and the sometimes-fierce Nebbiolo tannins are very well-managed here—a product of both place and vintage, as 2012 was known for a gentler breed of Barolo across the board. While there is lots of Nebbiolo savor, the texture is almost silky, with lots of bright fruit, making it extremely accessible now; give it about an hour in a decanter and you’re good to go (in Burgundy stems, of course!), taking care to keep the temperature around 60 degrees to temper its alcohol/acidity. In the broader Barolo universe I’d describe this as a ‘short-term’ ager, capable of 5-7 more years in the cellar. At this price you can afford to re-visit it periodically over time, all the while perfecting your pasta-making skills. For me, this is the ideal accompaniment to fresh tagliatelle or fettucine dressed with a lightweight sauté of wild mushrooms. Attached is a recipe I’ve shared before, designed to lend mushrooms some of the earthy perfume of Piedmontese white truffles. You’ve got to try it!
— David Lynch
