As we continue to refine our selections and our content here at SommSelect, allow me to re-introduce our new Editorial Director, David Lynch, who presented this offer. A veteran sommelier and the co-author of the authoritative “Vino Italiano,” David brings a wealth of Italian wine expertise to our team. You’ll be hearing more and more from David as we expand our sommelier team in search of the absolute best wine (and information) for our subscribers. Cheers and happy reading! — Ian Cauble, MS
Over the years I’ve hosted my share of “Italian Wine 101” types of tastings, and certain wines make perfect ambassadors for Italian wine in general. This Barbaresco from Ronchi is one: If I’m trying to woo an Italian wine newbie, I want this in my bag. It’s unmistakably a wine of place, undeniably ‘serious,’ and surprisingly affordable. It is also unlike anything else in the world; I can’t compare it to something French or Californian (“It’s kind of like a Cab!”) as a means of introduction. Yes, wine experts liken the wines of Barbaresco—and Barolo, and other appellations that feature the Nebbiolo grape—to the red wines of Burgundy. And yes, there are some similarities between the two, both in their winemaking cultures and the character of their wines. But while it is indeed aromatic, and vintage/vineyard-sensitive, like Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo ultimately veers off in its own brawny, earthy direction. I say all this to provide context for calling this 2013 a ‘textbook’ Barbaresco. Vintage after vintage, Ronchi offers a modestly priced entrée into one of the world’s greatest terroirs—the Langhe hills of southeastern Piedmont.
When people speak of “The Langhe,” they’re referring to the hilly area in Piedmont’s Cuneo province that takes in both the Barbaresco and Barolo wine appellations—both of which are near the town of Alba and both of which produce pure Nebbiolo wines. One isn’t often mentioned without the other, and the old saw is that, in terms of wine style, Barbaresco is the “queen” to Barolo’s “king.” The soils in both zones are calcareous marls (lime-rich clay with some sand), but Barbaresco’s are a tad richer, with slightly more clay, and its wines are typically a touch less tannic and austere than those of Barolo. Both appellations have minimum aging requirements for their wines: a total of 26 months (with 9 months in barrel) is required for Barbaresco, as compared to 38 (18) for Barolo.
The Ronchi property is based in the village of Barbaresco proper, with the family house perched atop the ‘cru’ vineyard of the same name (for you Italian wine geeks out there, the Ronchi vineyard is bordered by “Montestefano” to the north and “Moccagatta” to the south). The Rocca family has been in this spot for four generations and winemaker Giancarlo Rocca presides over about 7 hectares (16 acres). Working without any pesticides or herbicides, Rocca is also a traditionalist in the cellar, aging his wines only in the large, Slavonian oak vats known as botti and bottling his wines unfined and unfiltered.
The 2013 vintage was widely hailed as a “classic” one in Barbaresco, producing wines of intensity but also of balance—no fruit bombs here, but then again, Barbaresco isn’t for the fruit-bomb lover to begin with. Ronchi’s 2013 is above all pretty and, yes, ‘feminine’; not all Barbarescos/Barolos fall neatly into their queen/king classifications, but this one does. In the glass it’s a pale garnet-red with flecks of crimson at the rim, totally typical for a young, traditionally styled Nebbiolo. Perfumed aromas of dried black cherry, red currant, rose petal, sandalwood, leather, and tobacco draw you in like Yogi Bear to a picnic basket, while on the palate the (sometimes harsh) Nebbiolo tannins are soft and refined. It’s a Barbaresco of finesse and elegance, but also of earthy rusticity, with bright, not tart, acidity. As you swirl and sip this wine you’re transported to a mid-winter day in the vineyards of the Langhe, the scents of damp earth and leaves mingling with the smoke of burning vine-prunings. Although this will age nicely for 5-10 years, it is also quite accessible now, provided you decant it about 30-60 minutes before serving. Use your biggest Burgundy bowls and pair this with something suitably earth-driven—winter truffles if you can get your hands on some, or maybe some pristine porcini mushrooms for pasta (check out this
recipe). When you’re drinking this there’s no doubt you’re drinking real wine. I can’t get enough!
— D.L.
