In Burgundy’s top sites, Chardonnay is capable of producing extraordinarily complex, mouthwatering, elegant, and cellar-worthy wines. This Chablis Premier Cru, Fourchaume, is considered at the apex of its class, thanks to a locale that rests just above the cluster of Grand Crus.
Although legendary Burgundian negociant house, Remoissenet Père et Fils, has been a fixture of the Côte d’Or since 1877, they have just recently ventured north to find the best parcels in Chablis. Under the guidance of President, Pierre Rovani, Remoissenet made a wine that epitomizes the lauded vineyard at its finest. For its price, this wine of impeccable pedigree offers a profound sensory narrative. It has a focus, concentration, and structure which will allow it to age for decades in your cellar.
Back in 2007, my father and I visited the legendary Remoissenet negociant house, and it was an experience I will never forget. We entered the fairly innocuous building in the epicenter of Beaune. Behind a non-descript door was a flight of stairs that seemed to descend in temperature with each step. A large space revealed a winery and cellar that was first built in the 1300’s. Vast catacombs of wine going back through time were organized in countless vintages. To say that Remoissenet is a historic negociant firm would be a gross understatement. Founded in 1877, Remoissenet remained in the family for 128 years. Roland Remoissenet was at the helm of the family firm for roughly thirty years, but quality began to slip towards the end of his tenure when it was sold to a group that includes New York’s Milstein brothers, Toronto’s Todd Halpern, and Louis Jadot in 2005.
Under the new owners, Remoissenet is experiencing a serious renaissance that has returned the great name of Remoissenet to its former glory. President of Remoissenet, Pierre Rovani, started his career in the White House and ultimately found his passion as a wine writer and businessman. Under his thoughtful guidance, underachieving growers have been discontinued in favor of only the most serious parcels and passionate growers like this stunning Fourchaume is a perfect example. The concentrated, pitch-perfect balance reveals an expression of the famous vineyard that more than lives up to the Remoissenet reputation for world-class quality.
The 2014 Fourchaume displays a golden core with a touch of green highlights throughout. Once the wine opens up with enough air, powerful aromas of yellow apple, green and yellow plum are combined with notes of acacia flowers, hazelnut, lees, river rock and oyster shells. The medium-bodied palate awakens the senses with flavors of Asian pear, salted lemons, yellow apple, green plum, pureed hazelnuts and stunning chalk and oyster shell minerality. This wine requires a minimum of one hour in a decanter, after which it fills out with texture and the stunning aromatics pulsate with life. Although beautiful in its youth, this is a wine to cellar for 10-20 years if you have space. For optimal results, decant for one hour and serve in Burgundy stems just below cellar temp (50-55) degrees. I would advise pairing this classic Premier Cru Chablis alongside this
pure take on Seared Cod to let the wine shine.