The Wachau boasts two grapes of major importance - Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Predominantly made in dry styles, they are some of the world’s finest examples when crafted in the right hands. This grape, Grüner Veltliner, is the most widely planted white varietal in Austria and is one of the greatest food wines to ever grace a table cloth. Garnering a spot in top restaurants around the world, this varietal almost always lands on a tasting menu thanks to its near unmatched suitability for delicate and refined cuisine. Unique to the Wachau are the classifications, Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd, which are label indicators that indicate ripeness level of grapes at the time of harvest; all of these styles are fermented dry. Steinfeder, translating to “stone feather,” due to the feather-like appearance of the grass, is the lightest style, harvested with the least amount of brix (sugar in the grapes), which translates to a maximum of 11.5% alcohol when bottled. Federspiel, named for the traditional hunting art of falconry in the area, is the next ripeness level and enjoys more texture and richness at 11.5% to 12.5% alcohol at bottling. The last and most serious style is Smaragd, which translates to “emerald,” due to the local, green lizard that surfaces to eat the grapes when the ultimate ripeness level is achieved. Smaragd enjoys the heftiest concentration, weight, and aromatic complexity at a minimum of 12.5% alcohol but can reach as high as 15%. The style of this wine is Federspiel - the delightful expression is great with food or on its own and is the classification we drink most often.
One of the top five producers in the celebrated Wachau, many consider Weingut Prager’s wines to be at the ultimate pinnacle of the talent-rich region. Todi Bodenstein has been at the helm of this celebrated estate since the early 1990’s, and he is one of the most knowledgeable people in all of Austria. He has studied each vineyard and works it accordingly, which results in an incredibly pure translation of terroir that brings out the very best of each site. The wine is derived from the Hinter der Burg vineyard, which translates to, “behind the castle,” as it has been farmed behind an old castle near the picturesque village of Weißenkirchen since the 13th century. The 33-55-year-old vines are rooted in Mica-Schist soils at 760-860 feet in elevation, which results in a wine with a remarkable sense of place. Toni is equally passionate in the cellar. His pristine fruit is fermented with only natural yeast, which he feels is essential to expressing the vineyard's terroir. Each vineyard’s wine is simply one of a kind and serious experience that always over-delivers for the price.
The 2013 Hinter der Burg Grüner Veltliner has a pale straw yellow core moving to a slightly green rim. Aromatics are clean, savory and mineral-driven with aromatics of green apple, unripe white peach, green mango skin, lime leaf, cucumber peel, daikon radish, white pepper and crushed stones. The palate is medium-bodied, spicy and fresh with similar flavors to the nose, driven by green plum, lemon, lime and a spicy finish. This is a wine that opens up nicely with air; so feel free to decant to allow it to come to its potential a bit quicker. Ideally, decant this wine for 30 minutes and enjoy between 50-60 degrees. The warmer you serve this beauty, the more texture and flavors will emerge while the bright acidity will soften. This wine charms with a variety of foods, but we strongly recommend a course of fresh seafood like this
whole grilled fish with fresh fennel.