Clemens Busch is widely considered one of the greatest producers of Riesling in the world. His grandfather was the first of the family to focus the family estate exclusively on viticulture. Since taking the reins in the mid-seventies, Clemens began organic viticulture – well, organically. He stopped using herbicides and allowed the native plants in the vineyards to have a voice. By 1986, Clemens and his wife, Rita, had converted their entire estate to organic farming. Since that time, he has been convinced that ultimate health of the vine’s ecosystem leads to the purest expression of terroir in the wine. As a result, his wines translate a sense of place more powerfully than almost any other example I have ever tasted. This Trocken Riesling is a compilation of parcels boasting red, gray and blue slate soils, lending a layered expression of minerality that is truly magnificent.
Clemens Busch strikes the ideal balance between tradition and innovation in the vineyard as well as the cellar. His hand-harvested fruit is fermented and aged in thousand-liter barrels that are a minimum of 48 years old – many of which were crafted by Rita’s father. The aged, neutral barrels allow the wine to age without oak influence obstructing the unique terroir. Aside from a tiny dose of sulfur before bottling, this wine is produced with as little sulfur as possible, which is a serious rarity in the region. The wine is bottled unadulterated without fining or filtration, which results in one of the most authentic representations of Mosel Riesling you will find. This Riesling offers a direct experience of the Mosel’s array of slate soils it is derived from with a purity of fruit and bright freshness that is simply unmatched.
The 2014 Clemens Busch’s Trocken Riesling displays a brilliant pale straw core with heavy green reflections on the rim. The classic nose exudes intense aromatics of green peach pit, green plum, green apple, green mango peel, green pineapple core, and a touch of quince. It’s infused with notes of kaffir lime, lime blossoms, wet slate, honeysuckle and a touch of petrol. Bone dry on the palate, the wine boasts refreshingly high acidity rounded out with bold green stone and tropical fruit, citrus and white flowers and is stunningly framed by complex layers of wet slate minerality. Addictive and seemingly impossible to put down, this wine practically evaporates into thin air once the cork is pulled from the bottle. Entering its peak now, it will blossom over the next 5-7 years and will age beyond with proper storage. Decanting is unnecessary although the wine should not be served too warm. Simply pull from the refrigerator fifteen minutes prior and serve at roughly 50 degrees in Riesling stems. Pairing possibilities are endless, but we recommend this
fresh Asian salad with soy-ginger vinaigrette.