Today, Clemens Busch is considered one of the greatest producers of Riesling in the world. His grandfather was the first of the family to focus exclusively on viticulture from the soil that would inevitably comprise part of this iconic estate. Since taking the reins in the mid ‘70s, Clemens began converting the estate to organic viticulture – well, organically. He stopped using herbicides and allowed the herbs in the vineyards to have a voice in the terroir. When he noticed more humus in the land, he stopped using fertilizers. By 1986, Clemens and his wife, Rita, had inevitably converted their entire estate to organic. Since that time, Clemens has been convinced that the ultimate health of the vine’s ecosystem leads to the purest expression of terroir in the wine, translating a sense of place more powerfully than almost any examples I have ever tasted. Specifically sourced from only grey slate soils of the lauded Marienburg vineyard’s sheer hillsides, the unique vom Grauen Schiefer (which translates to “from grey slate”) delivers one of the most pristine snapshots of the Mosel’s terroir ever produced. In addition to the temperate climate as well as the cooling and reflective influence of the majestic Mosel River, this site’s 70+-year-old vines deliver immense concentration, crystalline acidity and an inimitable expression of the noble varietal.

Clemens Busch strikes the ideal balance between tradition and innovation in the vineyard as well as the cellar. His hand-harvested fruit is fermented and aged in thousand-liter barrels that are a minimum of 48 years old—many of which were crafted by Rita’s father. The aged, neutral barrels allow the wine to mature without the hindering voice of oak to obstruct the definitive terroir. Aside from a tiny dose of sulfur prior to bottling, the wine is bottled unadulterated without fining or filtration. The result is a Riesling that offers a direct experience of the grey slate soils it is derived from with a purity of fruit that is unmatched.

The 2012 Vom Grauen Schiefer displays a concentrated light yellow, golden core that moves to green reflections on the rim. The intricately perfumed nose yields powerful aromatics of white peach, green apple, white wildflowers, lemon and lime blossoms over a fragrance of hazelnut, petrol and crushed slate. The palate is bone dry with barely detectable level of residual sugar at 3 grams per liter. The fruits confirm the nose with additional flavors of green melon skin and pineapple core. The wine is medium-bodied yet impactful with layers of focused minerality and crystalline brightness that delivers a tension that no other varietal in the world is capable of translating. This exquisite wine is entering its peak and should have decades of life ahead of it. To enjoy right away, decant for roughly forty-five minutes then serve in Riesling stems between 50-55 degrees. I personally prefer this wine closer to cellar temperature where the full aromatic spectrum is on display. For a splendid pairing, try this savory lotus stem salad.