The appellation of Gattinara, which was elevated to DOCG from DOC status in 1990, rests in the northern reaches of Italy’s Piedmont region about an hour and a half north of its more famous neighbor and cousin, Barolo. Producers of Nebbiolo in Gattinara, where it is locally known as Spanna, are allowed to add up to 10% Bonarda and no more than 4% Vespolina with a minimum of 90% Nebbiolo to their wines, although today’s example is 100% Nebbiolo. Perched in foothills below the European Alp’s second highest peak, Monte Rosa, the vineyards of Gattinara boast an expression of Nebbiolo that is often described as more feminine as it is even more perfumed than the examples found in Barolo or Barbaresco. Extreme diurnal shifts, thanks to the altitude, as well as volcanic rock and clay as opposed to the calcareous and marl deposits akin to Barolo, lend enhanced aromatics and a unique mineral expression of this treasured grape at a truly attractive price point for the quality. Winemaking in Gattinara reaches back to second century BC Romans and was already well known by European aristocracy by the Renaissance period. The oldest continuously operating winery in Gattinara is from today’s highly respected producer, Nervi. 

 

Founded by Luigi Nervi in 1906, Nervi came to the attention of the current Norwegian owners when Erling Astrup first tasted the wines back in 1995. Struck by the beauty of land and the energy found in the glass, it became a dream to someday own the precious vines and winery. It took sixteen years; then, in 2011 along with four Norwegian families, Erling’s dream became a reality and the passion definitely has made the transition to the bottle. This wine was crafted by the Nervi staff prior to the sale of the winery; however, chief oenologist and veteran winemaker Enrico Fileppo has been and remains a fixture at Nervi long before the arrival of its new owners. Fileppo actually tends the mother yeast culture, used for fermentation and propagated since the fifties, and maintains it is one source of the winery’s consistent style over all the years. Under their viticulturist, Etorre Bornate, the vineyards are tended and harvested by hand. Fileppo ferments the wine with natural indigenous yeast in climate-controlled stainless then ages the wine for five years, well past Gattinara’s aging requirements, in large Slovenian botte, additional time is taken in traditional cement vats then the wine rests bottled for one year in the ancient cellar.