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Thierry Richoux, Irancy

Burgundy, France 2012 (750mL)
Regular price$32.00
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Thierry Richoux, Irancy


Irancy is a tiny and relatively new appellation in the Yonne department of northern Burgundy, which is most famous for the Chablis AOC where Chardonnay is exclusively cultivated. What few people know is that this pocket of Burgundy is the breeding ground for some exceptional red wines that can also be enjoyed at a serious value. Due to Irancy’s unusual landscape, which consists of a southwest-facing amphitheatre, the grapes are able to reach phenolic ripeness and are protected from the harshest winds when the temperature drops. Since Irancy became an official appellation in 1999, it has garnered quite a reputation for Pinot Noir within France. Thierry Richoux’s father, Jean-Claude, was actually one of the forerunners when Irancy was still considered generic Bourgogne (Burgundy) and was one of a few responsible for the appellation’s AOC status.
 
Thierry Richoux has followed in his father’s footsteps and pushed the envelope of quality even further. He is keenly attuned to the terroir, which is apparent in his transparent, honest wines that tout the distinct limestone soils they are derived from. Lined with cherry trees that are incongruous in such a northerly locale, his vineyards are maintained at extremely low yields, are harvested manually and are in the long process of organic conversion. The wine undergoes whole cluster fermentation in cement then is gently pressed and returned to age in cement for one year further. The wine is then aged in huge 5500-liter neutral Foudre for an additional year. The result is a stunning Pinot Noir that I could easily call a young example of mineral-driven Nuits-Saint-George in a blind tasting.
 
Thierry Richoux’s Pinot Noir displays a deep, dark ruby core with pink reflections on the rim. The exquisitely perfumed nose boasts aromas of wild flowers, black tea, tree moss, forest floor and crushed seeds laced with fresh strawberries, red plums, a touch of redcurrant and subtle, exotic spices far in the background. The medium-bodied palate reveals a terroir of focused limestone minerality melded with bright acidity; compact flavors of slightly unripe strawberry, cranberry, pomegranate and cherry unfold to reveal further layers of forest floor, dried rose petals and a touch of nuanced baking spices in the distance. If consuming young, decant this wine for 30-45 minutes and serve at roughly 60-65F in large Burgundy stems for optimal results. Right when you open the bottle, this wine is a bit angular and mineral, but after around 45 minutes of air, it fills out and starts to sing. I will say, however much I enjoy this little beauty right this minute, it will unfold into a whole other space in a couple years. I recommend enjoying 1-2 bottles now while losing the rest in the dark recesses of your cellar. This wine will begin to emerge in 2-3 years and will most likely peak a decade from now. A friend of mine was with a group of aficionados drinking a bottle of 1996 Richoux Irancy a few weeks back next to aged wines from top producers sourced from the most famous villages of Burgundy that command ten to twenty times the price; it was unanimously agreed that the Richoux Irancy was, without a doubt, the best on the table by far. This wine is destined to be a star in your cellar and is just the right price to let it ride. For an ideal pairing to this wine, prepare this simple duck recipe. You will be happy you did.
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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