In discussing wine we often speak of the importance of adhering to tradition. Still, the word “tradition” is subjective, and great wines are often borne from challenging the consensus about a given variety or region. For instance, many wine professionals feel that Barbera is not a grape that benefits appreciably from extended cellar aging. These same individuals might also argue that the soils in Piedmontese village of Dogliani speak most clearly through one variety, alone: Dolcetto. So, for me it is all the more exciting that with her 2007 Langhe Rosso “Austri”, Nicoletta Bocca of San Fereolo has bottled such a truly stunning wine that defies both of these common misconceptions. This is a Barbera—the “wrong” grape for the village of Dogliani—that has clearly ascended to greatness due in no small part to extended aging. It’s an exciting wine that challenges the status quo in this corner of northern Italy.

The story of this bottling begins in the 1400 ft+ “Austri” vineyard in the subzone of Valdiberti. This is an ancient and painstakingly farmed limestone soil vineyard that adheres strictly to the tenets of biodynamics. Because of the stellar and time tested location and the chemical free nature of the farming, the fruit produced here possesses exceptional personality and energy. Seemingly, Barbera from the “Austri” vineyard has more of everything—more depth, more fruit, and more intensity than other Barberas I’ve tasted recently from this part of Piedmont. In the cellar, Nicoletta takes pains to preserve and never mask the wine’s character. Fruit is destemmed, crushed, and then fermented in large neutral Slavonian oak vats. There is no temperature control, the old wood imparts very little in the way of oaky aroma or flavor, no additives or commercial yeasts are added—the wine is largely left untouched. The result of this hands off approach is an untamed wine of notable expressiveness and energy. 

In the glass, the 2007 San Fereolo Langhe Rosso “Austri” shows its peak maturity. The wine’s crimson/purple core becomes more translucent as it reaches outward, and slight orange hues are visible on the rim. My lasting impression of this bottle was that it was purely and definitively northern Italian in character, and it somehow made me feel energized and more alive and awake with every sip. Make no mistake—this is not a simple, gluggable low ABV% “party wine”; it’s a beast. Still, I found it surprisingly thirst quenching and refreshing given its considerable depth and structure. On the nose, the wine is lifted out of the glass by tart cherry, huckleberry, pomegranate, violets, oiled leather, white stone and truffles. On the palate it has considerable fruit and ripeness, but both are kept in check by appetite whetting freshness, a deep meatiness, and the unmistakable stamp of this wine’s terroir of origin. Truly, this wine could only be made in Piemonte. I encourage you to decant this bottle for 1 hour prior to serving in large Burgundy stems. And just as Nicoletta has left this wine wild and untamed, I encourage you to pair it with a rustic beef preparation. This extremely simple hangar steak is the perfect match of this outstanding wine.