Roagna's vineyards in the rolling hillsides of Barolo and Barbaresco are left relatively wild. When I was in Barbaresco a few years ago on a vineyard tour with Aldo Vaca from Produtorri del Barbaresco, I looked up at the Cru named “Pajé” and noticed that one sub-parcel appeared completely overgrown; as if a forest had popped up in the middle of the vineyard. I asked whose vineyard it was and of course, the answer was Roagna. Luca's vineyards are a healthy and beautiful example of temperance and nature amidst a sea of mono-culture and heavy handed chemical herbicide use. This style of farming, in which incredibly tall, native grasses and several varieties of wild flowers and herbs are allowed to grow in the vineyard soils, is not typical in this region—or really any major wine region in the world. This vineyard philosophy is indicative of Luca's respect for biodiversity and his desire to produce wine from vineyards that thrive in their own natural, “hands off” homeostasis. This philosophy extends to the cellar as well. Luca macerates grapes in enormous old wood casks for up to 100 days with no roto-fermenters or invasive modern technology—this slow, patient process extracts maximum tannin, provides structure, and is precisely what allows Luca’s wines to age for an eternity. And cellar aging is what Roagna’s wines are all about—these wines need time. For instance, I am just now breaking into my 2004 Barbaresco crus from the estate. Today’s wine certainly doesn’t need a decade of rest, but I would still recommend a few years in the cellar if you wish to experience its peak.