The Sella family’s history of winemaking and grape growing in northern Piedmont began centuries ago in 1671. The same family has continued operating this estate here in Italy’s border region just south of Switzerland. Snowcapped alpine panoramas, dense pine forests and wild flowers make for one of the most visually stunning destinations in the world of wine. Specifically in the tiny appellations of Lessona and Bramaterra, the Sella family farms some of the most acidic soils in which vines are planted anywhere in the world. This location does not provide for bountiful harvests or easy work, but the resulting wine is worth every effort. Due in part to elevation, cooler climate, and lower PH soils, Nebbiolo grown in this part of Piedmont takes on a fascinating and unique character. The region’s best examples are every bit as thrilling as top quality Barolo and Barbaresco—only 90 minutes due south, mind you—but with an extra dose of invigorating freshness and “lift.” For me, it’s a perfect balance: deep, layered, and mysterious as all great Nebbiolo must be, but with the thirst quenching and appetite whetting freshness and elegance of great Burgundy or aged Côte-Rôtie. These are truly special wines.
This wine hails from the Sella family’s most ancient vines in their 3+ centuries old property in Bramaterra. All fruit is harvested by hand and then pressed into enormous old 500 liter botti grandi—some of the largest old wooden barrels one will ever see in a wine cellar. The high ratio of wine to wood means that the oak has less impact on the finished product, and does not mask or diminish the delicate character of this alpine soil. The other incredibly important component of this wine’s unparalleled depth and quality is its age. I cannot stress enough the importance of cellar aging top flight Nebbiolo like this. Once the these wines enter their second decade, they begin to take on a second and third layer of complexity and mystery. Mushroom aromas evolve into truffles, dark fruit evolves into exotic tea and floral aromas, and its overwhelming youthful tannins eventually melt into perfect harmony with the rest of the wine. Enjoying a bottle of properly aged Nebbiolo of this extraordinary quality is a transformative experience.
The 2004 Tenute Sella Bramaterra “I Porfidi” has a dark garnet center with translucent orange reflections on the rim. This wine’s aromatic palate is mesmerizing, with dark plum, black cherry, fresh truffles, dried roses, exotic dried spices, pipe tobacco, gingerbread and faint forest aromas. As with all truly memorable wines, the aromas evolve dramatically—each individual fruit, floral or mineral note takes its turn soloing before it evolves into something altogether different a moment later. This is a fascinating wine to sit with. The palate is mouthwatering, dry, and fresh, but still plush, ample and lively with red currants, black cherries, plums, pomegranate, dried rose petals, alpine herbs. The finish is endless, rich and fulfilling, but still possessing of the characteristic freshness and lift that makes this alpine expression of Nebbiolo so unique and wonderful. Due to its advancing age, I do not recommend decanting for more than 30 minutes. The wine still has many years of evolution and improvement ahead, but I think it has important things to say shortly after the cork is pulled. Sometimes you can miss some of the fireworks if you decant a wine too long before drinking it. I encourage you to enjoy this perfect wine now in large Burgundy stems, and you will never regret hiding away a few additional bottles—I don’t expect to see this vintage in the market ever again.
