Verdicchio is an indigenous Italian grape variety that dates back as far as the 14th century. The name means little green one, reflecting both the rich, green color of the ripened grape, as well as its green tinge on the rim in the glass. It is an illustrious variety that grows exceptionally well in the cool maritime climate of Le Marche, where all of Sartarelli’s vineyards are located. Donatella Sartarelli and her husband, Patrizio Chiacchiarini, own and manage the estate, working as a team with their oenologist—Alberto Mazzoni—and their two children. The family has been growing grapes since the 1960s, but only began making their own wine in 1972. As a team, Sartarelli has been famously producing the most beautiful expressions of Verdicchio in the entire region ever since. The rich texture and precise chalky minerality of the 2010 Balciana Classico Superiore make this wine unlike any other Italian white wine I have tasted; in fact, it reminds me of Grand Cru Chablis. This is a result of the calcareous (chalky) soils in which the vineyards are planted—an anomaly for many Italian white grape varieties. This aspect of terroir makes this Verdicchio distinct and unique, and seriously irresistible. For the Balciana bottling, Donatella and Patrizio choose to harvest the grapes later in the season to achieve as much ripeness as possible; the grapes hang in the sun, slowly ripening, and usually develop a small amount of botrytis which adds a touch of exotic floral notes to the final wine. The wine is in no way over-ripe or sweet. The fruit is more ripe and concentrated, though still manages to maintain crispness and acidity from the 1,000 feet elevation and cool, coastal breezes. The steepness of slope provides ample sunlight so that the grapes ripen perfectly, and highly sustainable farming practices keep the flavors pure and naturally delicious. When you taste the 2010 Balciana Classico Superiore, you will understand why it is widely considered one of the best whites produced in all of Italy.

The 2010 Balciana glistens with a concentrated, light golden core moving to green reflections on the rim. Concentrated aromas of ripe golden apples, green plums, lemon, crushed oyster shells, acacia flowers, white mushrooms, and yellow mango leap from the glass in perfect balance with a saline-like perfume. The palate is broad shouldered and round with flavors of yellow apple, meyer lemon, honeysuckle and dried orange peel. A pleasant Chablis-like minerality lingers on the center of the tongue with flavors of oyster shells on the finish. There is no other wine like this in Italy that I have come across before. Open this wine thirty minutes before enjoying out of large Burgundy stems at just below cellar temp, similar temp to a great White Burgundy. There are many pairing options, even dishes as robust as slow roasted pork, but for me there is nothing as good as whole fish on the grill. This particular recipe is unreal. Serve alongside grilled vegetables.