Todays, 2004 Terra Valentine Cabernet Sauvignon from Spring Mountain’s Wurtele Vineyard falls into the latter end of the spectrum. I recently tasted through a vertical of their wines from 2003 to 2008. The 2004 was remarkable and it was something I just had to share. Terra Valentine is one producer in the Napa Valley that I have always loved thanks to the classic, old world charm of their wines. The Wurtele Vineyard delivers a magnificent sense of place that is incredibly reminiscent of the old world. To put it simply, in a blind tasting I might call this wine aged Left Bank Bordeaux from a top producer.
The Napa Valley, designated an official appellation in 1981, is now home to 16 sub-AVAs (American Viticultural Area) thanks to the various soils, elevations and climates found in the valley. Although the AVAs in the flats of Napa boast famous names that are widely visited and consumed on the regular, high elevation appellations, like the Spring Mountain District, and the vineyards within them can offer unique hidden treasures, with more floral notes, earth and structure, that cannot be paralleled on the well-known valley floor. If you were to traverse the tiny road up Spring Mountain, comprised of tight, hairpin turns, you would come to rest at Wurtele Vineyard, which rests amidst surrounding forest land. From its apex, the view of the Napa Valley is breathtaking, with the charming town of St. Helena on your right and Calistoga to your left, it is a site that should not be missed. The 30-acre Wurtele Vineyard, which is perched atop the Mayacamas Range in Spring Mountain District, rises to 1000 feet in elevation. The vineyard is planted to one clone of Cabernet Sauvignon but enjoys a large variation in soil, including volcanic and sedimentary rock, and experiences sunny days with cool nights.
Terra Valentine was actually started by the Wurteles, who still own and farm the Wurtele Vineyard in partnership with Terra Valentine. It was the Wurteles who brought in Phil Baxter as the winemaker for their project. Phil’s son, Sam, was reared in the vines and inevitably went off to UC Davis to study fermentation science. He returned to Terra Valentine after receiving his education and gaining some hands-on experience elsewhere. Sam became the winemaker in 2002 and recently purchased the winery from the Wurteles in 2014. Sam crafts his Cabernet Sauvignon in as traditional a way as possible. All the grapes are hand-harvested and hand-sorted; 50% of the grapes are fermented in whole clusters. After a cool, gentle fermentation, with regular punch-downs, the free run juice is aged in 45% new French Oak barrels for twenty months before it is bottled without fining or filtration.
For those of you who have been drinking Napa Valley wines since the seventies and have watched it evolved, this wine will satisfy that yearning for the good old days of classic Cabernet. This wine has a concentrated dark ruby core, which quickly moves to orange and garnet reflections on the rim, typical of a decade-old Cabernet. The elegant and perfumed nose is driven by a layer of violets, fresh tobacco, pencil lead and cedar over black plums, blackberries, dried black currants, and dried wild berries laced with licorice, a touch of cocoa powder and crushed gravel. The incredibly classic palate is round and perfectly balanced, with velvet-like tannins, it shows a bit more fruit than the nose with additional fresh wild berries and blackcurrant liqueur, intertwined with wild herbs, green tobacco leaf, dried violets, crushed stones and light baking spices. Ideally decant this red for 30-45 minutes, then serve at cellar temperature and watch as this wine comes to life before your eyes as the temperature slowly rises over the next hour. Although it is beginning to peak now, this wine is made in such way that it will retain balance and aromatic perfection for at least another 5-10 years. For a pairing worthy of this beauty, try
this Veal Chop.