The Sella family’s history of growing grapes and making wine in the Lessona region began in 1671; for over three centuries, they have remained a proud, family run operation. Continuing tradition from the 17th century, they still focus production on indigenous Italian varieties, primarily Nebbiolo with small amounts of Croatian, Vespolina and others. They own vineyards in both Lessona and Bramaterra, and make a small array of exclusive wines that show how well the family has perfected its practice over the years. In Lessona, the vineyards are heavily influenced by the hot summers from the Mediterranean to the south and contrasted by the piercing cold winds from the imposing Alpine Mountains to the north. Thick patches of Alpine forest emanate pine-scented breezes, which undoubtedly finds its way into the wine—a very unique and enjoyable characteristic that sets these wines apart from the rest. Expansive views of snow-capped mountains and wild flora in between hilly rows of vines, make this region one of the most majestic and rugged areas to visit.
The vineyards of Tenute Sella Lessona are situated on hillsides covered in indigenous wild flowers and herbs. Left relatively wild, the vineyards maintain a natural ecosystem and are not inundated with chemicals or fertilizers—using only natural manure for fertilizer. Farming the vines and harvesting the grapes is done by hand, as is the ancient custom, which the family respects and adheres to in all aspects at the winery. Their less invasive, natural approach lends itself well to the expression of terroir in the glass. The sandy, marine-influenced soils have a high concentration of iron, manganese and potassium, which brings distinguished minerality to the finished wine. The final wine, a blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Vespolina, is aged for twenty-four months in Slavonian oak barrels—bringing roundness and long-term ageability to this incredible wine.
The 2008 Lessona shows a classic garnet core moving to orange reflections on the rim—typical of Nebbiolo that is 6-7 years old. The aromatics are strongly influenced by the Alpine forest; aromas of wild herbs, wet pine, cedar, dried rose petals, fresh red cherries, wild berries, wet tobacco and a hint of wet rocks all leap from the glass in beautiful high toned synchronicity. The palate of this elegant Nebbiolo is dry, fresh, and lively with notes of fresh red currants, black cherries, plums, cranberry, dried rose petals and alpine herbs. The finish is long and pleasurably driven by the mineral components of the sandy soils. Finally, its fine, silky tannins are reminiscent of great Barbaresco. I recommend decanting this Nebbiolo for an hour before serving at just above cellar temperature in large Burgundy stems. This wine is drinking beautifully at the moment, but will easily handle decades more in the cellar, some I have spoken to feel this wine will age indefinitely based on Lessona wines of the past.
