Finding significant quantities of antique Napa Valley wine is a rare feat that becomes increasingly more difficult with each passing year. In order to track down perfectly aged library wines such as today’s, it requires efforts outside of a few simple phone calls or quick emails. In the case of Spring Mountain Vineyard, it came in the form of a personal reference from a friend, which in turn led to an unforgettable private tour and tasting at this truly historic winery.
The first vineyard for Spring Mountain was cultivated way back in the late 1800s, just decades after legendary George C. Yount had planted the very first vines in the Napa Valley. Today, Spring Mountain Vineyard performs the impossible by retaining the lost art of classic winemaking and preserving old stocks in their original, hand-carved cellar—two unthinkable triumphs in the frenetic pace of today’s wine landscape. They are a winery that has remained entrenched in tradition and quality, but this 1988 isn’t just an enduring feel-good story—the wine in the bottle is extraordinary. Intensely aromatic, savory, and overflowing with breathtaking levels of purity and freshness, it will stun any admirer of Cabernet Sauvignon and leave an indelible memory for those well-versed in mature reds. Last, and perhaps most amazingly, there is still plenty of life left in this bottle: It will take 2030 in full stride and last well beyond that should you want to further experience the age-defying evolution of an iconic Napa winery. Up to six bottles per person until the inevitable sellout!
After our tour—from the original carved-from-pickaxe cellar to the exotic gardens—we then entered Spring Mountain’s renovated 1800s manor and were seated in a grand dining room with breathtakingly fitting decor. After tasting through their impeccable current releases, a concealed bottle of wine was poured into our glasses. Time to blind taste! With just one smell, our team agreed that it was an aged Cabernet Sauvignon somewhere between 1979 to 1993 (I called ‘83). The key takeaway, though, was just how beautifully this wine was showing. Old gems like this are nearly impossible to find these days.
Though the winery as currently constructed wasn’t formed until the early 1970s, the name itself and 845-acre property holds more history than can be included here. Put simply, the Spring Mountain District AVA wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for Spring Mountain Vineyard. Many of the vines under their ownership were originally planted by the renowned Beringer brothers; Charles Lemme (who planted the first Cabernet on Spring Mountain); and Tiburcio Parrott, who, according to the winery’s website, was “...a champion of freedom and of every man’s right to earn a living, regardless of race, creed or color. His standoff and ultimate victory against the State of California, amid the most divisive era in American history, reversed a discriminatory addition to the California State Constitution of 1879 that prohibited the employment of Chinese or Mongolian workers by corporations in the state.”
We also learned that Spring Mountain Vineyard’s sprawling property is planted to over 225 acres of vines that are further divvied up between 130+ hillside plots ranging from 400 to 1,500 feet. As such, their vines are exposed to hundreds of unique microclimates that are masterfully and sustainably farmed by hand. In the cellar, it’s all about classic winemaking. Grapes undergo extended macerations and fermentations in stainless steel with a judicious pump-over regimen before being transferred into used and new French barrels for a long 22-month aging period. This 1988 was bottled unfined and hasn’t moved from the winery since—it’s still resting there undisturbed as you read this.
And when a three-decade-old wine hasn’t moved or seen a ray of sunlight since it was bottled in 1990, the results are remarkable. In the glass, Spring Mountain’s 1988 reveals a mature hazy ruby-garnet with a brick-orange rim but its aromatics are so impressively vibrant. It dazzles with concentrated dark fruit and savory tobacco overtones that dance along a firm mineral backbone. Tenor-like acidity is in harmony with brooding bass notes of cassis, black cherry liqueur, dried plum, and blackberry that culminate with an encore of rich baking spice, sandalwood, dried violets, cigar box, mint, and vintage leather. The rich yet finessed palate (only 13.5% alcohol!) reveals mouthwatering layers of mineral texture and intense fruit purity. Above all, though, it remains superbly fresh throughout—a testament to a renowned terroir, historic winery, and flawless provenance. Spring Mountain’s 1988 will bury any preconceived notions you may have about “old wine”—there’s no doubt in my mind that this bottle will still be in a beautiful drinking window 10-20 years from now. It’s a museum piece, a conversation starter, a wine-of-the-year candidate, and everything in between, but most of all, it’s a magical library release that perfectly encapsulates the very best of classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This is one of our favorite old finds, period. Please enjoy with your closest friends and family.
