Every so often, we’re compelled to remind people that Beaujolais is part of Burgundy. And still there are many—including wine professionals—who willfully ignore this fact. Yes, it takes about an hour by car to get from Beaune, sort of the epicenter of Burgundy, to the heart of Beaujolais country—and by then the soil has shifted to granite over limestone and the red grape of choice has gone from Pinot Noir to the lesser-regarded Gamay.
But Chardonnay persists down in Beaujolais. As does limestone, in places. One taste of this Bourgogne Blanc from Domaine Paul Durdilly and suddenly Beaujolais isn’t so far from Beaune at all—except, of course, in price. We taste (and offer) lots of white Burgundy around here, and from a price-to-quality perspective, this is one of our most exciting discoveries this year. By this point, I think we’ve established that Beaujolais reds can be exquisitely, rightfully “Burgundian.” Durdilly’s 2016 makes an emphatic case for the whites, at a price that is practically unheard-of in today’s Burgundy market. Take advantage of the wine world’s willful ignorance and hoard this gem; we did, so quantities are healthy!
The Durdilly domaine is toward the southern end of the Beaujolais region, beyond the 10 ‘cru’ villages. The family farms a multitude of tiny plots totaling just over 8 hectares, in and around the village of Le Bois d’Oignt, where soils are dominated by limestone (the same mother rock found further north in “Burgundy proper”) and vineyard altitudes reach to a relatively high 350 meters. Working with vines ranging from 40 to 80 years of age, Durdilly farms sustainably according to lutte raisonnée principles and works in a very traditional manner in the cellar. Red wines are aged in a mix of tank and larger, used French oak foudre, but this white is raised in stainless tank only, to preserve all the freshness and minerality.
Durdilly’s 2016 Bourgogne Blanc is a mineral and quite-substantial expression of Chardonnay, sourced from 30-40-year-old vines rooted in limestone. In the glass it’s a pale straw-gold with hints of green at the rim, with an expressive nose of yellow apple, salted lemon, citrus pith, white flowers, lees, raw hazelnut, and a touch of oyster shells/crushed stones. Aged only in steel, it is tangy and vibrant on the palate, with citrusy acidity complemented by a slight creaminess. At this price, you might expect it to disappear on the mid-palate, but in fact it’s got some genuine impact and an aromatic, lingering finish. If you were to stock up on it, it will make a perfect short-term ager, continuing to improve as you re-visit it periodically between now and 2022 (or thereabouts). Serve it in all-purpose whites or larger Burgundy stems (I always prefer the latter) at 45-50 degrees and enjoy it with a quick and easy sole meunière. Simple, delicious, and affordable—just how we like it!